The Garden of Eden

Imagine a sandy island where the wind blows endlessly across the horizon, and the sun blazes relentlessly. In this barren landscape, however, blooms Île d’Eden, also known as the Garden of Eden. It’s a green oasis, a testament to human perseverance and the ability to work in harmony with nature.

Paul, one of the farmers, looks over the garden with a warm smile. “It all started as a dream,” he explains. “We wanted to create something that would not only feed our family but also inspire other communities.”

Visitors to the Garden of Eden can purchase fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, honey, sea salt, and eggs at reasonable prices. Paul emphasizes that many sailors staying in the lagoon are unaware of this opportunity. He hopes more sailors will take the time to visit and discover the local products.

I wrote this blog after our tour through the Garden of Eden, accompanied by the enthusiastic crews of SV Liward, SV Skylark, SV Nahoa and SV Lille Venn.

The Beginning
The Garden of Eden has been a thriving organic garden on the atoll of Tikehau for nearly 30 years. The question it began with was simple: how do you grow plants in the coral sand of an atoll? At first, it was a challenge. The first few years were tough, as organic farming requires patience and dedication. But as the years passed, the results improved. Unlike the use of chemical fertilizers, which harden and degrade the soil over time, organic fertilization makes the land more fertile with each planting. Every time they plant, they create fresh compost.

Coconut palmtrees
Coconut palms play a central role in island life. Every part of the tree is used—from the trunk to the leaves and coconuts. The trunk serves as compost, the leaves are shredded for mulch, and the coconut provides oil for cooking. Even coconut waste is used as animal feed, and cooking is done with coconut husks instead of gas. Old coconuts are sent to Tahiti to produce Monoi oil, a nourishing oil for skin and hair that gains an amber colour during heating.

Fresh water
Freshwater is scarce on Tikehau. Rainwater is carefully collected and used to water the plants, cook, and drink. Groundwater is available, but it’s too salty to use for watering vegetables. As a result, about 400 to 500 litres of rainwater are used daily for the garden, which is impressive given the limited rainfall in some seasons. Fortunately, a large water tank ensures that water remains available even during prolonged dry periods.

A lifestyle, not a business
The garden and everything involved aren’t about profit. Although the prices of the vegetables are comparable to non-organic products in the local supermarket, this is not a commercially driven project. It’s a way of life. Organic farming requires hard work and dedication, and while it may not always be the most profitable path, it is a sustainable and meaningful choice. Profit isn’t the focus here. The Minister of Agriculture of the Tuamotu Islands would like to see other islands adopt similar practices, but it rarely happens. The reason is that organic farming requires much effort without financial gain, and the supply ships continue to come, which is seen as the easier route.

A global vision for sustainability
The community behind the Garden of Eden also owns land in South Africa, Australia, the United States, and Taiwan, where it practices organic farming. In the U.S. and Australia, it plants olive trees for olive oil production. In South Africa, it grows soybeans and wheat to make flour and soy sauce. This ensures that its products are free from genetic modifications (GMOs), so it plants its own soybeans and brews its own soy sauce.

Solar Power
Since the rise of solar panels, the community has switched to solar power, making them almost entirely self-sufficient in energy. The only time they use a generator is when welding; otherwise, everything, even the water pump, is powered by the sun. Phil from SV Skylark noted that the island’s electricity system and water management are similar to those on a sailboat, where energy comes from the sun, and water is carefully managed.

The challenge of pests
Like any farmer, this community also faces challenges from pests. Rats and fruit flies are the biggest problems. To keep rats away, they place metal plates around the trunks of coconut palms so the animals can’t climb up. “Did you know rats love coconuts?” Paul asks. “Yes, they have a nose for the freshest and most nutritious ones,” he explains.

Vanilla
Vanilla, one of the most important crops on many islands in French Polynesia, requires great care and attention. An essential part of growing vanilla is mulching the soil, a process in which organic material such as leaves and branches is broken down and spread over the ground. This enriches the soil, which would otherwise consist mainly of sand. Mulching creates a layer that retains nutrients, benefiting the roots of the vanilla plant.

Vanilla belongs to the orchid family, meaning it has relatively shallow roots. Protecting these roots from the harsh sun is crucial for their growth, which is why screens block about 50-60% of the sunlight. In the garden, the difference is clear: plants grown in the shade are significantly larger than those exposed to direct sunlight.

Pollination of Vanilla
One of vanilla’s most fascinating aspects is how its flowers must be pollinated. Vanilla flowers rarely self-pollinate, and natural pollination is rare. Therefore, manual pollination is required, where each flower is pollinated by hand. This process is delicate and requires precision. The pollen is hidden beneath the flower and must be carefully transferred for successful pollination.

After pollination, the vanilla pods take about nine months to ripen. This labour-intensive cycle makes vanilla a valuable product. Dried vanilla can fetch up to 60,000 XFP (around 500 euros) per kilogram, while green, undried pods can sell for 18,000 XFP (around 150 euros) per kilogram.

The role of micro-organisms
Microorganisms play a crucial role in soil fertility. These tiny organisms break down organic material during composting, feeding the soil and promoting crop growth. In some cases, specific microorganisms are added to speed up this process. A standard method is using Effective Microorganisms (EM) to optimize composting and make the garden more productive.

Paul explained that EM, or Effective Microorganisms, is a natural solution used globally to address environmental issues, such as soil enrichment and water purification. This technique, developed by a Japanese professor, is widely applied, even in cities like Los Angeles, to clean rivers and landfills. Paul demonstrated how he imported EM microorganisms from Australia and multiplied them, turning one litre of EM into twenty litres. This was used for agricultural purposes and as drinking water for livestock, showing how modern science can support and enhance traditional farming practices.

In short, the use of microorganisms contributes to more sustainable farming methods and broader ecological improvements.

Coconut palms
Coconut palms are a familiar sight on the islands, but not all trees bear the same amount of fruit. This is because there are both male and female coconut palms. Female palms produce significantly more coconuts than the male ones. When planting new trees, they intentionally choose female palms to increase the yield.
Paul showed us how you can tell if a sprouting coconut comes from a female or male flower. Female coconuts sprout from the centre, while male coconuts sprout from the side. Female coconuts are rarer than male ones.

Compost
While we looked at his chickens, Paul pointed to the compost heap: “This is the compost made from chicken manure, coconut, and the trunk of the coconut tree.” He explained how, over time, the compost changes as microorganisms break everything down. The result is rich, odourless compost, ideal for the garden. “When it’s fresh, you can still smell the chicken manure,” he told us, “but when it’s ready, it smells like soil.”
He gave critical advice that chicken manure should not be used directly on vegetable beds. Although vegetables grow faster because of it, they increase nitrate levels, which can harm health. “Too many nitrates can cause cancer,” he warned. Therefore, it’s better to compost first before using it in the garden.

Honey
In addition to farming, they keep bees. Paul mentioned that everyone in the family has their own responsibilities. “I take care of the garden and the fruit trees while my friend looks after the bees.” We got a glimpse into the beehives, where they produce honey. To keep the bees calm, they use smoke and wear protective suits.

The challenges of growing fruit trees on atolls
We walked past fields where they grew pumpkins, bananas, and papayas, but to our surprise, there were no mangoes or avocados. “The roots of those trees go too deep,” he explained. “As soon as they hit seawater, they die.” This shows the challenges of farming on an atoll, where the proximity to seawater is a significant obstacle.
They tried growing loganberries in the past, but after a few years, those trees also died. Despite all the challenges, the community continues to innovate and experiment with new crops.

Sea Salt
In addition to growing fruits and vegetables, they also produce sea salt. “In one litre of seawater, you get about 20 grams of salt,” he proudly shared. The salt extraction process is simple: through evaporation of seawater in various trays, they obtain pure sea salt. “This salt contains more than 90 minerals that our bodies need,” he added.
They use enclosed spaces for evaporation to prevent bird contamination, ensuring purer salt.

The Wonders of Moringa
Another crop we came across was the Moringa tree. Paul praised its nutritious properties: “In South Africa, they plant a lot of these trees for people who can’t afford milk.” The Moringa tree leaves are rich in nutrients and are eaten raw or processed into tea or capsules.
He offered us some Moringa leaves and many of us eagerly took a handful to add to smoothies or tea.

Pearl Farm
During our walk, we passed by a few bungalows used for guests who come to Tikehau from Tahiti for vacation. Paul explained that these bungalows were initially built for the workers of the pearl farm. Although pearl farming is now done on a smaller scale than before, they still actively cultivate pearls.
He explained that the lagoon of Tikehau is not ideal for pearl farming due to the water quality. “The water here is not as suitable as in Ahe or Rikitea, where it’s colder and clearer.” The warming of the water due to climate change has led to an increase in algae, further complicating pearl production.

Self-Sufficient Farming
Paul and his community only plant what they can use or sell to avoid waste. Before COVID, they went to the village weekly, but now only once every three or four months. The community works sustainably and sells their products to villagers and people on sailboats.

As we prepared to return to our boat, with lots of fresh and delicious goodies like: lettuce, fresh basil, mint, bananas, papayas, eggs, sea salt, spicy red peppers, and honey. We also left with new insights. The Garden of Eden is truly a green oasis.

In conclusion, I want to once again invite the sailing community to discover Île d’Eden. Fresh vegetables, fruits, herbs, honey, sea salt, and eggs are available here at very attractive prices. Paul hopes that more sailors in the lagoon will take the opportunity to buy these local products.