Welcome to French Polynesia

The Magic of Arrival
Welcome to French Polynesia, where the local greeting is “Ia ora na!” greets you when you arrive. This friendly sound reverberates through the tropical air, surrounded by people with warm brown skin. Their expressive faces and thick, dark hair, often decorated with colourful flowers, tell stories of a rich cultural heritage.

Local Charm and Traditions
French Polynesia is not only a visual feast but also a place full of centuries-old traditions. The tattoos that adorn the inhabitants’ skin are personal works of art and symbols of their culture. Each design tells a story, a living piece of heritage proudly worn by the people here. While we enjoyed these first impressions, we knew many more adventures awaited us. Our next goal was to explore Fakarava, the largest atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago.

An Adventurous Start in Fakarava

Expectations and Reality
We dreamed of serene lagoons and calm, sheltered waters when we imagined Fakarava, an atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago. We expected a paradise for snorkelers and divers, where the crystal clear water would invite us to explore the underwater world. However, reality turned out to be an unexpected adventure. But nothing could prepare us for what was to come.

The Unexpected Storm
We entered the northern passage of Fakarava. The scene changed utterly. There was no serene peace. A ferocious storm broke out—completely unexpected. Rain pelted down like sledgehammers, and the wind howled like fury, completely unpredicted by even the most advanced weather models. The VHF radio overwhelmed us with panicked voices from other boat owners at the anchorage. Warnings flew back and forth about dragging anchors and boats getting too close together.

Chaos at the Anchorage
Chaos. The anchorage area was a jumble. Who was new? Who tried desperately to re-anchor? Who was looking for a safe exit? From our position, we couldn’t see anything clearly.

Amid the pouring rain and the violent waves, we felt the piercing gazes of the boat owners around us as we lowered our anchor. In such moments, you only hope for one thing: that your anchor will immediately grab hold and keep you safely at a distance from the other boats. Unfortunately, our anchor kept dragging along the bottom without finding any grip. We drifted dangerously close to a reef and another boat, forcing us to raise anchor quickly. The rain became so intense that we could barely see our hands. We decided to leave this beautiful but cramped place and look for another safer location. The relief from the other boat owners was almost palpable when they saw us sailing away.

“‘Can you hear me?’ I shouted to Jeroen at the front of the anchor. The storm roared so loudly that the wind swallowed up his answer. Communication was impossible. We couldn’t see the coral pillars or the small fenders, those other boat owners attached to their anchor chains; the only sensible thing to do was to sail back into the channel and hope that the storm would pass quickly. The wind increased waves crashing against the boat every three seconds, ferociously. Staying inside the boat was not an option, while Jesper didn’t dare go outside.

Search for Safety
Once at a safe distance between two coral rocks, I navigated the channel so that the waves came more diagonally from the front instead of to the side, giving Melissa a feeling of security. The wind was howling at 35 knots, with gusts above 40 knots. This was no innocent tropical rainstorm. Chilled to the bone, I stood shivering from the cold behind the wheel as the storm continued unabated. The rain finally stopped after what seemed like an eternity. Six long hours of incessant clanging. But the wind? It continued to rage above 30 knots. We were not out of the danger zone yet. Still, we returned to the anchorage, determined to find a more spacious and safer spot. Finally, we found a spot in deeper water, where we dropped our anchor at 19 meters and let out 80 meters of anchor chain. The anchor held! We finally lay still. Relieved and exhausted, we breathed, after which I first took a hot shower and put on dry clothes. We enjoyed a well-deserved anchor beer.

Welcome by friends
We saw Ralph from Lille Venn arrive with a broad smile. “Did you have fun out there?” he asked, grinning. He was with Fritz, and we chatted relaxed. It was very nice to see each other again. Lille Venn had planned to sail to South Fakarava today, but they postponed their plans until tomorrow due to bad weather. They asked us to sail with them, but we were exhausted and longed for some rest in North Fakarava, where shops and cosy restaurants beckoned us. After this tumultuous day we deserved a night out.

From Storm to Silence

The morning after the Storm
That night, the wind howled around the boat, occasionally accompanied by a tropical rain shower. The power of the elements made sleep impossible. The waves turned ‘My Motu’ into a toy ball, bouncing up and down on the choppy water. But when we looked outside the next morning, somewhat tired from the bad night, it was as if we had ended up on another continent. The sky was clear blue, the sun shone brightly, and the water was much calmer. The storm? A distant memory. As if it had never happened. This was precisely the idyllic image we had imagined of an atoll in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

Moving to a Quieter Anchorage
We lowered the dinghy and watched as the other boats around us pulled up anchor to sail south. Ralph and Fritz stopped by to say goodbye and told us that the place where they were anchored was quieter. With more rain and wind on the way, Ralph and Fritz recommended we move to their quieter anchorage. We decided to follow their advice. An hour later, we were at a nicer and quieter anchorage. Finally, we could relax and enjoy the tranquil beauty of Fakarava.

Discovery of North Fakarava

A World to Explore
After three days on the boat, we all wanted to stretch our legs on land. North Fakarava had a lot to offer: walks to the Topaka lighthouse, a charming shop with local art, pearl farms, local restaurants, and resorts with their beautiful beach bungalows. There were even quads, scooters and electric bicycles for rent. We were looking forward to exploring the local culture and sights.

Visit to the Topaka Lighthouse
It was a nice walk to the Topaka Lighthouse, a remarkable and historic landmark. Built in 1957 under the leadership of Mrs Taui Degage, a rarity for that time, this lighthouse is distinguished by its unique architecture and materials. At 14 meters high, it is made of lime, stones, and coral, reflecting the building traditions of the islands.

The Phare de Topaka, with its ten terraces, is a striking mix of an Egyptian pyramid and a futuristic structure. It is an iconic landmark on the atoll. Originally, the lighthouse served as a beacon for fishermen and pleasure boats, who used it day and night to navigate safely along the waters of Fakarava. In the past, a fire was lit at the top as a signal for boats and to communicate with nearby atolls.

Surrounded by swaying coconut palms, the lighthouse is visible from almost any point in Fakarava’s northern anchorage. Despite its historical and cultural value, the lighthouse is no longer in use today, as more modern navigational aids have taken over its function. Now, it is in the airport’s protection zone, making its future uncertain, with plans to possibly demolish the building.

An Evening at the Hirinaki Lounge

Pampering after the Storm
Later that evening, the Hirinaki Lounge looked very inviting, and we were all looking forward to a fun night out. The food was truly delicious. We enjoyed the culinary delights, the fun with the five of us, and the excellent wine. It was a very successful evening that made us completely forget the storm of the previous days. As we laughed and shared stories, we felt our bond grow stronger. The adventure had brought us closer together.

The Magic of the Pearl

Discovery at the Hivaraki Pearl Farm
Melissa and Jesper discovered that you can participate in a unique lottery at the Hivaraki Pearl Farm. After an extensive explanation about the art of pearl cultivation, we were given the opportunity to choose an oyster ourselves. You could keep the pearl inside and have it made into a necklace or bracelet. In addition, you could taste the “Korori”, the pearly adductor muscle of the oyster, with a hint of lemon. Jesper, Melissa and I went to the lottery full of enthusiasm.

The Journey of the Pearl
Pearl cultivation in Fakarava is possible thanks to the spacious and nutrient-rich lagoon. Creating a pearl begins with collecting Polynesian blacklip oysters from the lagoon, especially on the west side, where plankton attracts them. Nets are installed on the surface of the sea, and after four to six months, the oysters are collected and brought to the farm. There, they grow for another two years before they are ready for the next step.

The oysters undergo a delicate artificial fertilisation procedure at maturity according to a Japanese technique. This involves placing a tiny ball made from the thick shells of other molluscs in the oyster. This delicate procedure requires patience and precision. After this procedure, the oysters are returned to the water to form pearls, which takes another two years. Only half of the oysters will successfully create a pearl. Oysters that produce the most beautiful pearls are given the opportunity to grow again for two years before the next harvest.

Management and Harvest
Daniel and his team currently manage around two thousand oysters in their pearl farm. Harvest days are magical moments, the result of years of patience and dedication. The Polynesian black-lipped oyster is unique and rare for its ability to produce pearls in various shapes and colours. They can create round, oval or baroque pearls, with colour shades from silver to vibrant cherry red, peacock blue, green and grey, and mystical black as the ultimate showpiece. Unlike other pearl cultures, which usually produce single-coloured, round pearls, the end result here is entirely in the hands of nature.

The Perfect Pearl
Only about one percent of the harvest is made up of perfect pearls, which are carefully selected in the workshop for imperfections. Discovering a perfect pearl is an exciting moment for Daniel and his team, often celebrated before it is finally sold. This unpredictable treasure hunt and the natural beauty of the pearls make pearl cultivation on Fakarava a unique and fulfilling experience.

Our Own Pearl Treasures
Melissa chose an oyster first. The draw went surprisingly smoothly. However, the first oyster turned out to be diseased and contained a large, strange ball. In the second oyster, she found an elongated, small pearl, and on the third attempt, Melissa successfully found a beautiful silver pearl. She was allowed to keep both pearls. I found a beautiful blue-grey pearl in my oyster, and Jesper also discovered a beautiful silver pearl. We tasted the “Korori” and were surprised by the firm structure and the surprisingly tasty taste. Our finds were made into necklaces and bracelets and proudly returned to the boat.

On Underwater Adventure in South Fakarava

Diving at the ‘Wall of Sharks’
After our experience at the pearl farm, we focused on the next adventure: snorkelling and diving. South Fakarava is known for its spectacular diving sites, especially the famous “Wall of Sharks”. This dive site attracts divers worldwide because of the impressive number of sharks that can be seen here.

A sailing trip through the Atoll
To reach the south of Fakarava, we had to travel 30 nautical miles within the atoll. During our sail, we kept a close eye on the horizon for coral rocks, known as “bommies,” that could block our route. After six hours of concentrated sailing, we reached our goal and were finally able to drop our anchor.

Discovery of the South Pass

Exploration in the Morning
Early in the morning, Jeroen and I got up to explore the Zuidpass, curious about the snorkeling opportunities and the condition of the water. On our first dive, we immediately saw several sharks in the depths and numerous schools of fish surrounding us. We wanted to share this experience, so we brought in Rajesh, Melissa, and Jesper. Together, we snorkelled through the pass several times, encountering more and more sharks.

From Snorkeling to Diving
Inspired by the underwater world, Jesper, Jeroen, and I decided we also wanted to dive. Although seeing the sharks from above was impressive, we wanted to experience them up close. The next day, we joined Marcus, an American from SV Faith, for a dip in the pass.

A Spectacle of Sharks

Underwater experience
Within minutes of diving, we were surrounded by an impressive display of sharks. In addition to the numerous grey reef sharks, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks also swam around us. They moved in an almost trance-like state, calm and silent against the current. Unlike our previous experiences with curious sharks on Isla de Providencia, the sharks here were remarkably calm and showed little interest in the divers. Some even relaxed on the seabed as the current moved the water through their gills.

A Unique Gathering
It was a fascinating sight to see so many sharks at the same time, a spectacle that is due to the special location of the South Pass. This passage is a crucial mating and spawning site for several fish species. Every year, around the full moon in the month of June, around 20,000 groupers gather in Fakarava Atoll for their spawning season. They flock to the southern passage that connects the lagoon to the open ocean. During this natural phenomenon, the female groupers release millions of eggs, while the males release clouds of sperm for successful fertilization.

Spawning time of the Groupers
Spawning season is essential for maintaining grouper populations. This also attracts a variety of marine predators and scavengers. Sharks, barracudas and other predatory fish often congregate in large numbers to take advantage of the plentiful food available during the spawning season. During this period, the sharks can feed on the large fish populations, which helps them survive in this dynamic and rich environment.

The days in South Fakarava gave us an unprecedented glimpse of the natural world beneath the surface. The harmony and dynamism of marine life here remind us of nature’s balance and the wonders it continues to show us. Looking back on our adventures, from the peaceful snorkelling to the diving experiences, we realized how privileged we are to experience such magical moments in this remote corner of the world.

Our next adventure takes us to Tahanea Atoll. After a night at sea, we reached the calm passage. Once we arrived, we started our search for Manta Rays and fascinating octopuses. You can read all about this in our next blog.

Welkome in Frans-Polynesië