Tahanea: a paradise far away from the world

In a world where we are constantly connected to technology and the hustle and bustle of modern life, it is almost unimaginable to imagine a place where you can be truly secluded, surrounded by pure nature. Tahanea, a pristine atoll in French Polynesia’s Tuamotu Archipelago, offers just that: an escape to a paradise where time and the hustle and bustle of the world seem to disappear.

Life on Tahanea

Tahanea is one of those rare places on earth where you can feel completely alone. Here, in the middle of the vast Pacific Ocean, there are no restaurants or shops, no crowds or noise. What you will find is unspoilt nature and azure blue waters, coral beaches and an astonishingly rich marine life. It is a place where nature sets the pace.

Underwater adventures

Every day, we explored the underwater world. The snorkelling was a real treat: the sensation of six majestic manta rays swimming towards you is intense and unforgettable. It’s a mix of pure joy and amazement, so overwhelming that you almost forget to breathe. All attention is focused on the manta rays: their graceful movements and peaceful presence. All other sounds and creatures around you fade away as you become completely absorbed in this unique and beautiful moment. And we were so happy that we could share this with Jesper and Melissa.

Furthermore, you swim among curious small sharks and a colourful spectacle of coral fish. Each snorkel session revealed new wonders – from glittering schools of fish to tranquil groupers making their way through the coral. Another memorable moment was coming face to face with an octopus, which moved elegantly between the reefs and showed its camouflage skills, almost making you mistake it for a piece of coral.

Evening fun

As the sun slowly sank into the ocean, we drank a nice beer, chatted, and laughed a lot. It was fun to discover this part of the world together and enjoy the simple pleasures of life. We also played a lot of games; Brandi Dog and Wizard were our favourites, but Jesper and I were also very good at writing—Jesper on his book and I on the blogs.

Weather Changes and Preparations

Over the past few days, we have been closely monitoring the weather reports. As much as we would like to enjoy this paradise even longer, the urge to go ashore again in a place with more action and adventure is becoming more and more itchy. The weather has been stormy on the ocean lately. Although we don’t notice much of the storms on Tahanea, we know that there is a threatening low-pressure area southwest of us, with strong winds and sky-high waves. We want to get ahead of this threat before it gets worse.

A lot of rain was forecast during our crossing, and we fervently hope that the weather models are wrong. Around ten o’clock, we pick up the anchor and sail quietly through the almost flat pass, an encouraging start to our journey. To be on the safe side, we put on seasick plasters, as waves of 3.5 meters high are predicted.

Challenges at Sea

Unfortunately, the weather models were completely correct this time. As soon as we left the shelter of the various atolls and reached the open ocean, the waves grew higher and the dark clouds gathered menacingly around us. Jesper and Melissa soon felt unwell; in such a situation, sleep is the only consolation. Melissa often lay in the cockpit, even when her feet got wet from the rain, while Jesper bravely stayed inside. The first night was tough, with short, high waves and rain that hung around us like a veil. The boat shook violently back and forth, something we are used to, but which is very uncomfortable for our guests. Eating and drinking hardly happened, and Jesper had to give everything to the fish several times. This brought with it an exhausting fatigue.

The second day started with torrential rain, but the sun broke through later, and the swell decreased slightly. Jesper and Melissa tried to recover in the sun and carefully ate something to drink and eat. The second night was a lot more pleasant, and luckily, everyone got more sleep. When everyone was awake, we decided to go to Point Venus. Just before we got there, we caught three more tuna, which filled the freezer again. When we lowered anchor later, we saw a black beach, green trees and colourful houses. The boat was finally quiet, really quiet, and you could see everyone’s relieved faces. We knew we would all sleep wonderfully that night.

Arrival at Point Venus

Point Venus turned out to be a beautiful anchorage, with black powdery sand on the beaches, a supermarket within walking distance and a delicious eatery. The Lille Venn was also in the bay, and we were allowed to borrow the wingboard for an afternoon. This is a surfboard with a wing underneath, which will enable you to get entirely out of the water. Jeroen practised for a while with Melissa, who turned out to be a natural talent. Eventually, she even practised standing on the board behind the dinghy. Then I tried it again. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to stay; the gendarmerie came by to report that we had to move to the airport anchorage within two days. That’s why we enjoyed the time we had here even more. Jeroen and I celebrated our 29th wedding anniversary and Jesper and Melissa took us for a delicious lunch at Mama’s Beach Bar.

Crossing to the Airport Anchorage

It was a short sail to the airport anchorage. We tried to get a spot in the harbour, but unfortunately, that was not possible. The airport anchorage is located between the capital Papeete and Marina Taina. There is a large supermarket at Marina Taina, and you can go to Papeete for some fun shopping. That Saturday evening, we went to a rooftop bar in Papeete for a sundowner and had an incredibly fun evening. We danced all evening and met the crew of a beautiful large sailing yacht and some locals.

Farewell to Jesper and Melissa

Jesper and Melissa’s holiday is almost over. They were on board with us for more than 5.5 weeks. They have been through all the ups and downs that we can have as sailboat liveaboards. The romantic image soon disappeared, but nevertheless they really enjoyed it. We loved having Jesper and Melissa on board and they are always welcome. Thank you for all your fun, beautiful stories and beautiful outlook on life. We will miss you.