Nathalie’s first plane trip and the magic of Bora Bora

Nathalie’s First Flight to Tahiti

Gert-Jan, Nathalie, and Julian are on the plane. For Nathalie, this is her first flight, as she has always been afraid of flying. She can’t quite pinpoint where her fear comes from; it’s more of a feeling. Maybe it’s the thought that you can’t just get out and are completely dependent on the plane and the pilots. I have a lot of admiration for her, as her first flight takes her, quite literally, to the other side of the world: Tahiti!

Arrival and Welcome

We are now calmly waiting in Taina Marina while busy with the final preparations. COVID complicated our search for a boat; family and friends never saw our boat and waved us off at Schiphol as if we were going on vacation.

Nathalie’s curiosity about our life on the boat, how we manage, what it all entails, and, of course, missing us all, has helped her overcome her fear of flying. Moreover, the idyllic place we are now in adds to her courage to take this step.

Gert-Jan, Nathalie, and Julian will sail with us for three weeks, and their biggest wish is to sail to Bora Bora. We are also looking forward to it. They land at half past five in the morning when it is still dark in Tahiti. Unfortunately, the darkness coincides with heavy rain showers, not a short tropical downpour. Moreover, Jeroen fell ill the night before, so I went to the airport alone by taxi. The plane landed half an hour earlier than predicted. Since they didn’t have any luggage, they were already through the doors when I arrived. This was not the welcome I had in mind, with flower leis as a greeting, but from my left peripheral vision, I saw them appear. They had just gone to the restroom, and fortunately, I was ready to meet them. It was wonderful to give them all a big hug and let them experience our life on the boat.

Exploring Tahiti and Moorea

From the airport, it’s only a short ten-minute taxi ride to Taina Marina. In the pouring rain, we walk to the boat, where Jeroen is already on deck, waiting to handle the luggage and help with boarding. It feels surreal that they are really here.

We give them a tour of the boat and show them where they will sleep: Nathalie and Gert-Jan in the master bedroom and Julian in the passage bed. They share a bathroom with a toilet. We sleep in the bow of the boat and have our own bathroom with a toilet.

Of course, we are curious about Nathalie’s experiences during the flight. From a reliable source, I heard that Nathalie, after waving us off at the airport, immediately said, “Not a chance in hell that I’d ever fly somewhere to visit them.” So it’s extra special that she did it anyway. To her own surprise, she wasn’t scared once and didn’t understand what kept her from flying all these years. What a relief! It’s nice to hear that new plans and ideas immediately arise about what else they want to explore now that flying is no longer a problem.

That same day, we did all the shopping and went to bed early. The next morning, we got up early, and the sun was shining again as usual. There wasn’t enough wind to sail, but it was otherwise a pleasant day to set off for the island of Moorea. We sail in three hours, under many idyllic, romantic conditions, to the bay of Ōpūnohu. Nathalie sits at the bow while Gert-Jan and Julian relax on the foredeck, enjoying the sun and scanning the horizon for signs of life in the water, and then we drop the anchor. Not long after, we are all in the dinghy, going exploring. We visit the beach, snorkel in various spots, and try to find places where you can swim with blacktip reef sharks and stingrays.

Julian is eager to go on a jet ski, and the next morning, Julian and I are dropped off at Moorea’s activity centre. To our surprise, we also need to bring snorkels. We hear that we’ll make a quick stop to snorkel with the sharks and rays. “Yes!” Julian and I shout in unison. Not only do we think it’s fantastic, but we also know exactly where we can sail with everyone later in the afternoon.

On the jetski, we speed over the water as if we’re in a chase scene from a James Bond movie. The nature and water are beautiful. Upon reaching the snorkel spot, we immediately see a number of sharks and rays swimming. Once we’re in the water, our visibility is somewhat hindered by the sand stirred up by the people walking on the bottom, but the sharks and rays soon surround us.

Swimming among the sharks and rays is an extraordinary experience. Time flies by too quickly, and before we know it, we’re back at the activity centre. Jeroen picks us up and is excited that we now know the exact location. Less than an hour later, we’re in the dinghy, pointing out the precise spot. Nathalie, Gert-Jan, Julian, Rajesh, Jeroen, and I all dive into the water. Great fears are overcome once again. For more than an hour, we marvel at the underwater world beneath us. Back on board, we talk endlessly about this unforgettable experience.

Sailing to Bora Bora

Then comes the day when we will sail to Bora Bora. A journey of 136 nautical miles, which will take us about 24 hours. We depart at half past seven in the morning after offering Neptune a sip of rum and asking for the usual blessing for a safe crossing. Soon, we sail at a speed of 7 to 8 knots in the right direction, with a beam reach. Everyone scans the horizon, hoping to see dolphins or whales. Dolphins briefly show up just before the pass to Bora Bora, but we don’t spot any whales this time.

For Gert-Jan, Julian, and Nathalie, this is their first sailing experience, and they find it quite intense. They had imagined sailing as a fairy-tale journey with cocktails on deck, a calm sea, and endless relaxation, but the reality is very different. It’s more of an adventure full of challenges: strong winds, high waves, and the constant movement of the boat. Seasickness makes the experience even more difficult, and everyday activities like using the toilet, walking, and cooking take on a whole new dimension. Each of them must learn to deal with these discomforts and find their sea legs.

Excitement is palpable as we approach the pass and are greeted by a few dolphins swimming briefly near the boat. These are the moments that make you forget all the discomforts. When we finally pass through the pass and reach the calm, flat water, we see the colour returning to everyone’s cheeks. The moment you realize you’ve arrived in Bora Bora is a reminder of why they embarked on this adventure.

Exploring Bora Bora

After securing the boat to a mooring buoy, peace returns on board, everyone is exhausted and has barely slept due to the intense journey. The silence is only interrupted by the gentle lapping of the water against the hull of the boat. They have overcome this challenge together and can now enjoy the well-deserved rest in this paradisiacal part of the world.

Bora Bora, one of the islands of French Polynesia, has a rich history dating back thousands of years. The first inhabitants of Bora Bora were Polynesians who arrived around 900 AD. These early settlers were masters of navigation and sailing and settled on the island because of its fertile land and abundant fishing opportunities. They developed a society with its own traditions, religions, and social structures.

The first European discovery of Bora Bora took place in 1722 when Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen reached the island. Later, in 1769, the famous British explorer James Cook visited the island during his journey through the Pacific Ocean. European explorers were impressed by the natural beauty of Bora Bora and the hospitality of its inhabitants, but their arrival also brought diseases and changes that severely affected the indigenous population.

In the 19th century, European influence in the Pacific increased. In 1842, Bora Bora, along with the rest of French Polynesia, became a French protectorate. This meant that the island came under French protection but retained a degree of autonomy. The French presence brought changes to Bora Bora’s politics and economy, including the introduction of new agricultural methods and trading posts.

During World War II, Bora Bora played a strategic role in the Pacific campaign. In 1942, the United States established a military base on the island as part of its defensive strategy against Japanese attacks. The American presence led to infrastructure construction, such as roads, a runway, and defensive installations. Although the island was never directly involved in fighting, the base remained operational until the end of the war in 1946.

After World War II, Bora Bora gradually transformed into one of the world’s most sought-after tourist destinations. The spectacular natural environment, with its lagoons, green mountains, and many luxury resorts, attracts thousands of visitors annually. Tourism is the island’s main economic pillar, but we notice that most tourists arrive by plane. For sailors, space is limited, and amenities such as dinghy docks are scarce.

Local Discoveries

We are moored at a buoy off Motu Toopua, overlooking the reef and the ocean waves crashing on it. We see various boats from the large resorts gathered together, and when Gert-Jan looks through the binoculars, he suspects he sees a group of manta rays. Not long after, Gert-Jan, Jeroen, Rajesh, and I are in the dinghy with our snorkel gear, going on an exploration. We discovered that you can also swim with blacktip reef sharks and rays here, and we also saw numerous tropical fish. What a fantastic experience again!

Together with Nathalie and Julian, Jeroen and I look for a group of eagle rays often seen in the channel and want to get a closer look at the hotel rooms on the water. We first head to a beach near the hotel rooms but find that you can’t walk any further. However, we find coconuts on the beach and take two back to the boat. In the dinghy, we get close to the hotel rooms, which look beautiful. Some even have a private pool, and the bathrooms overlook the lagoon. Top-notch romance!

On the way back, we slowly sail through the channel, scanning the water’s surface, but unfortunately, we don’t find the large group of eagle rays. After four days in this beautiful spot, we move to a mooring buoy at the Bora Bora Yacht Club. We take the dinghy to the marina, where the only dinghy dock is, and you’re right in the heart of the town. We browse the shops and do some more shopping. The fresh baguettes, croissants, and chocolate croissants are available here and too tempting not to buy. That evening, we dine at the Yacht Club and enjoy this treat.

We rent a car for a day to explore the island. We stop at a beautiful beach and enjoy the sun and sea for a while. Bora Bora has one road that circles the island and is a total of 32 km long. Along the way, you mostly see the reception areas of the resorts, from where you are transported by boat to your hotel room on the water. Additionally, you come across pearl traders, souvenir shops, and a few restaurants. It’s festival month, and we booked tickets for a traditional dance evening. It’s a special experience. The dancers, dressed in colourful traditional clothing, perform complex choreographies to the rhythms of traditional Polynesian music. The energy and passion of the performers bring the island’s rich culture and history to life, and it is truly a highlight of our visit to Bora Bora.

Raiatea

To make the return trip to Tahiti as short as possible, we decide to visit another island: Raiatea. Raiatea is considered the sacred origin of Polynesian culture and religion. This island is known as Hawaiki, the mythical birthplace of the Polynesians. In Polynesian mythology, Hawaiki is an important place that is seen as both the origin of life and the destination of souls after death. This duality makes Hawaiki an essential element in Polynesian spiritual and cultural beliefs. I look forward to delving deeper into this at a later time.

We go here in search of manta rays. For us, a visit to French Polynesia isn’t complete without seeing these majestic animals. From Bora Bora, it’s about a five-hour sail to Raiatea. We anchor in a very beautiful bay where manta rays are regularly seen nearby. This bay is also close to a pearl farm and a rum distillery, something Gert-Jan and Nathalie wanted to visit.

Manta rays are mostly seen early in the morning, so we all get up on time and make sure we’re at the spot where they are frequently seen before 8 AM. We’re lucky. Two beautiful manta rays swim gracefully and calmly around, and for Gert-Jan, Nathalie, and Julian, this is truly an unforgettable experience.

Gert-Jan, Nathalie, and I visit the Mana’o Rum Distillery. They produce rum from pure sugarcane juice and use ancestral varieties of Polynesian sugarcane. The distillery emphasizes traditional and sustainable farming methods. Mana’o rum is made without molasses, resulting in a rich and flavorful rum. After tasting various types of rum, we couldn’t resist taking a beautiful bottle of rum back to the boat.

Additionally, we visit the La Orana pearl farm, where we learn about the process of cultivating and harvesting the famous black pearls of French Polynesia. Nathalie finds a beautiful bracelet, and I am incredibly spoiled with a necklace with three pearls on it. This necklace is a gift for my 50th birthday. With tears in my eyes, I accepted the gift. It was a touching moment. Thank you, dear ones.

Next weekend, the wind will be coming in the right direction to sail back to Tahiti. What starts as a calm journey turns into a challenge. The waves get higher, and the wind strength increases. Suddenly, the autopilot fails, and we must steer the boat manually amid a storm with wind force 8. You can read all about this in the next blog.