Christmas in Dominica

Waking up on December 25, 2022 on a sailboat in Dominica, the rhythm of the swell of the water and the shining sun is a perfect way to start the day. The sounds of loud music can be heard everywhere, as almost everyone in Dominica goes to church at midnight, after which the party starts at 2am. This is a 22-hour celebration of dancing, singing, eating and drinking. This is not the first-time Christmas has been celebrated in tropical temperatures, as we have celebrated Christmas abroad before in places like Australia, India and Andaman Island and Nicobar. But this year it’s a party on a sailboat in Dominica, and we celebrate it together with our friends from sailboat Mabul. The day starts with Facetime to family and friends, so that we still feel a bit present, followed by cooking on board. Cooking on a boat requires more planning and time, as space is limited and kitchen appliances are lacking. I promised to make ice cream, which is also very possible without an ice cream maker, with only 3 ingredients: whipped cream, condensed milk and any flavour you like. I used fresh limes, passion fruit and cherries to make 3 flavors of ice cream. I also make Focaccia bread and chickpea curry with chicken. The drinks and salad are taken by team Mabul. However, things don’t go as planned and during the “de-icing” of our small freezer that freezes quickly, Jeroen accidentally hits a pipe that releases all the gas from the fridge / freezer and therefore isn’t working anymore. Jeroen is very angry with himself and I try not to think about whether the fridge-freezer combination needs to be replaced or if it can be repaired, but I hope for the last. We still have a freezer, but everything freezes less quickly in it. Fingers crossed! Our Christmas party starts at 4 p.m. with a feast and no Christmas tree or presents, but with a lot of fun on board. After dinner, we had three flavors of mouse instead of ice cream for dessert, we put on our open-air cinema and watch “The Pirates of the Caribbean”. Karin, has not seen a movie of “The Pirates of the Caribbean” before, but it is a must see for anyone sailing in this area as many movie scenes were filmed here. At the end of the movie it’s almost midnight and tomorrow morning Kish will take us on a new adventure. It was a unique and memorable way to celebrate Christmas, with good company and a tropical paradise as the backdrop.

The next morning, at 9 am, we are ready to start our last two days of adventure. Today we go to Batibou Beach and to Chandièr Pool.

A true hidden gem on the island of Dominica is Batibou Beach. This remote spot is located on the northeast coast of the island and is known for its white sand beach and crystal clear waters. The beach is accessible by a short walk from the nearby village of Calibishie. As you walk through the lush vegetation, you will be surrounded by the sounds of nature and greeted with the most beautiful view of the Atlantic Ocean. Here the Atlantic Ocean is calm enough for swimming. Batibou Beach is surrounded by green hills and there are tall palm trees with spreading crowns under which you can hide from the sun. There is a rustic beach bar with a number of picnic tables. We are the only beach guests and enjoy the waves, the sea, beach walks and a lunch that we brought ourselves. We could easily stay here all day, but Kish has more to do today.

The Mornes Diablotin National Park in Dominica is a nature lover’s paradise. The park is home to lush tropical forests, towering mountains and beautiful rivers. The walk to the Chaudière Pool is a unique place not yet very frequented by tourists, it starts with a long descent on a wide path with breathtaking views of the forest and the mountains. As we approach the river, the trail becomes more challenging as we have to climb and scramble over rocks to reach the waterfall. The sound of the waterfall gets louder and we get closer. Chaudière pool is a 4-meter-deep “pool” formed by nature between large gray rocks, fed by a calm waterfall from the river above. The dense forest provides plenty of shade, making it a perfect place for a refreshing swim. One of the highlights of the hike is the opportunity to jump off the cliff into the pool. Karin, Rajesh, Alex and I took the plunge from the 5 to 6-meter-high cliff into the cool water below, Jeroen skips this time because he had surgery on his back last year and he is happy that sailing and walking without problems is going. After a tough climb, back up, the sun started to set and we drove to a nearby restaurant in a hotel. Unfortunately, the food was a big disappointment, without any real flavor. Back on the boat, my tailbone hurt, a reminder that I had landed with my butt on the water a little too much during the jump.

We close our week with Kish with a hike of segment 11 of the Waitukubuli National Trail. The 200 km long Waitukubuli National Trail (WNT) with a total of 14 segments is unique. Starting in the south at the Cachacrou Isthmus and ending in the north at Cabrits National Park, this extremely challenging route winds through rainforest, villages and farmlands; You climb mountains, cross rivers and pass waterfalls. Waitukubuli National Trail Segment 11 is considered by most to be a challenging and long hike, traversing the island from south to north, through the rainforest of the Northern Forest Reserve. The trail begins at the Waitukubuli National Trail ranger station, where hikers can pick up a map and learn about the trail’s history and layout. From there, the trail winds through dense rainforest and through streams. The path is not always well maintained and we often had to clear the path using machetes from branches and leaves to continue following the path. In addition to the muddy paths, we also had to climb under and over tree trunks. Another part was so steep that we had to hold on to a rope and scramble down. People have slipped several times, some of which have even been captured on video. As we follow the trail we encounter a variety of different plant species including towering ferns, colorful orchids and towering bamboo. It was a beautiful adventurous walk and a nice end to our week.

That day we invited Kish to eat aboard our boat, a chance for her to try something new and for us to show her that white people food can be just as delicious as her traditional cuisine. As Kish put it, “white people food” isn’t her favorite, but we were determined to change her mind. We decided to make a special meal for the occasion, starting with a chicken chili, accompanied by freshly made chapati, made by Jeroen and Rajesh. To add a touch of diversity, we also made an okra curry with rice. As the evening approached, the boat filled with the aroma of the delicious food we had prepared. We sat down to eat, laugh and chat as we enjoyed the meal together. Kish found it very exciting as she admitted that she has no sea legs and was afraid of getting seasick on board, her good heart and hilarious sense of humor made her a joy to have on board. The next day we had a rest day and used it to prepare the boat for our next destination, Les Saintes. That night Karin cooked a delicious mushroom risotto on Mabul, and Kish was there again to feast on. Kish explained to the women on board Mabul what “black women” find important about men’s “sausages” and she shared with the men her knowledge about what women find important during kissing. It was an unforgettable experience, not only because of the delicious food, but also because of the chance to share different cultures and learn from each other. We laughed, we shared stories, and most importantly, we enjoyed each other’s company. It was a reminder that despite our differences, we all love good food and good company.

Kerstmis in Dominica