Bye bye Exuma’s, hello Eleuthera

Join us aboard our sailboat as we sail through the Bahamas, facing unexpected weather and dwindling food supplies. But fear not, we make the most of our time on board, with some taking on small jobs and others watching their favorite shows. And let’s not forget our unexpected visitors – five remoras hitching a ride on the bottom of our boat. We even found a drone while snorkeling, but unfortunately couldn’t track down its owner. As we sail on, we reflect on the challenges of adjusting to this new lifestyle and learn to appreciate the simple things in life. So join the ride as we head for Eleuthera Island, ready to take on new adventures and challenges.

The weather here in the Bahamas has not been in our favour lately. The wind has picked up, causing more clouds and higher waves in the bay. It’s not an ideal time to explore the area so we made the most of our time on board. While I was somehow trying to start writing, this blog writer turned out to be currently in a writer’s block. I started painting while the others were doing small jobs around the boat or just enjoying some free time watching videos on YouTube, Netflix or Plex. Unfortunately, our fresh food supplies are starting to dwindle. We are out of onions, fresh vegetables, fruits, bread and eggs, and there are no shops nearby to replenish our supplies. We’ve heard stories of locals plying between boats carrying fresh produce and eggs, but we haven’t encountered anyone yet. However, we are not complaining. Every day I bake two loaves of bread, which fill the boat with a delicious aroma, and I make vegetarian curries with canned vegetables, and we eat more pasta. We could keep this way of eating for months if we had to. Luckily the weather cleared up after a few days and we took advantage of the sunshine to paddle through the mangroves on our paddleboards. The water was calm and the surface resembled a mirror. We could hear the birds singing and the soft sound of our paddles as we glided through the water. It was a peaceful and serene moment and we even saw some fish below us and watch several turtles swim gracefully by.

We have also had unexpected visitors to our boat – five remoras have attached themselves to the bottom of our boat. These fish usually hang below sharks, rays or whales and use the suction cups on top of their heads to conserve energy. Rajesh tried to hand-feed them and videotape them, but they were more shy than expected. However, while snorkeling around the boat, he encountered a drone lying on the bottom of the water. We cleaned it, but unfortunately all the electronics were damaged and we couldn’t find a memory card to track down the owner.

It’s time to continue our course to Eleuthera Island, leave the Exuma’s behind and embark on a new adventure. We get up early, start the engine at 6:00 am and sail through the cut. Our timing is not perfect and we have the waves and current against us. Fortunately, there is not 30 knots of wind today. As we sail on, we appreciate the calmness of the water and the gentle breeze. After we passed the cut, which went quite smoothly, we motor on for a while until the wind picks up. Then we hoist all the sails and turn off the engine, sailing at a nice 5 to 6 knots with the wind from behind. It is a pleasant and relaxing journey. It’s times like these that make life on a sailboat so incredibly rewarding. While sailing, I pause to think about a question we recently received: “Did the adjustment to the new lifestyle really go as smoothly as it seems in the blogs?” The answer for me personally is a resounding “no”. Adjusting to this new lifestyle has not been a seamless process for me. I mean, of course I like being on the water and stuff, but it wasn’t easy to give up my old life on land. Personally, I was used to running my practice and juggling household responsibilities, so it was difficult for me to adjust to a completely different way of life, especially due to my great sense of responsibility and feeling of being in control, I had to try to let go. Jeroen took on most of the technical and electronic responsibilities, which made me feel a bit lost at times. I mean, where did I fit in? Was my only place in the kitchen? In addition, Jeroen and Rajesh had less trouble with the adjustments to life on board. It took me a little more time and some self-reflection, but eventually I found my place on board and discovered my own unique ways to contribute. Of course there were also other challenges. Insecurities about my identity due to a very unpleasant period in my life just before we left made things even more difficult. But with time, patience and a willingness to adapt, I am slowly learning to overcome these challenges and find my place on board. Another question we often get is, “Don’t you ever get tired of each other and don’t argue often?” The answer is simple: we don’t! We really enjoy each other’s company and explore this new lifestyle together. Don’t get me wrong, there are times when we all need our own space, but there’s plenty of space on the boat to kick back and do your own thing. Of course, we’re not immune to disagreements or misunderstandings, but we’ve learned and are still learning to communicate and compromise without letting it escalate into full-blown arguments. We’ve found that the ability to discuss and understand each other’s points of view is key to making this lifestyle work. Three-person living on a sailboat has its challenges, but it’s also an incredibly rewarding experience. We learn to appreciate the simple things in life again and enjoy the freedom of being at sea. And as we sail on, we look forward to all the challenges and adventures that come our way, knowing that we can rely on each other and are willing to adapt and learn from every experience. For now we just keep sailing and enjoy the wind in our hair and the sea at our feet.

When we arrive at the passageway at Eleuthera Island, we feel the excitement building within us. The water glistens in the sun and we can’t wait to explore the island. After passing through the passage, we motor for another 10 nautical miles, until we finally reach our anchorage. It is Saturday today and already after four when we arrive. We know we don’t have much time to lose and quickly find a jetty to go ashore and find a supermarket. We start a good half hour walk and finally see the supermarket, just in time before it closes at 5pm. When we walk in we notice that the lights are already out, but luckily we can go in quickly to grab some stuff. We hurriedly take onions, garlic, broccoli, mango and eggs, knowing that the rest will have to wait until Monday. Five minutes later we are outside again, thankful that we were able to buy some essential items. Once back on the boat, another boat comes in and to our surprise we hear the crew speaking Dutch. Baudine and Rob on their sailing boat Bojangels have been on the road for seven years now and have decided that this will be their last trip. The next few days, during sunset, we have a drink with them and chat about sailing life. They spoil us with books, movies, music and even a real ship’s horn shell that you blow when the sun has set. It’s amazing how easy it is to connect with people through a shared passion for sailing. As we sit on our boat, surrounded by the water and the soothing sound of the sea, we can’t help but be thankful for the experiences we’ve had on this journey so far. The encounters with new people and the beauty of nature around us make every moment worthwhile. The next day we decided to go for a walk and ended up at Cathedral Caves. These underground limestone caves have formed over millions of years and are truly breathtaking. As we entered Cathedral Cave in Rock Sound, we were immediately struck by the rays of the sun filtering through the roof and illuminating the cave. Despite the cave being known as Spider Rock Cave due to the cobwebs covering its walls, we actually saw no spiders during our visit. However, the size of the webs suggested that the spiders must be huge. Not sure if I should be impressed or terrified! As we explored the cave, we were amazed by the giant tree roots woven through the cracks of the cave’s ceiling, adding to the dramatic setting. And to top it off, we were thrilled to see bats flying around even during the day. It was a true-to-life Batman experience!

The Ocean Hole is another attraction that locals swear has healing powers. But when we arrived, we found several families snorkeling and spearfishing, and the water wasn’t that clear. We decided not to swim in it and didn’t stay long. Whether the legend of the healing powers is true remains a mystery to us. After sailing further north for seven hours the next day, we anchored at ‘The glass window bridge’. This man-made bridge replaced a natural rock formation that was destroyed in a hurricane. From the bridge, we could see a beautiful contrast between the dark blue Atlantic Ocean lapping away and the calm turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. The colours were really amazing and we couldn’t help but take a million shots to capture the moment.

Not far from the glass window bridge is the Queens Baths of Hot Tubs. Carved by centuries of waves crashing against the rocks, these natural pools were filled with dramatic crashing waves, shells, and tiny marine life streaming in from the Atlantic Ocean. Once settled, the crystal-clear water was warmed by the sun, creating a warm tide pool perfect for soaking. It was like having our own private hot tub in the middle of the ocean!

We are excited and a little nervous. The forecasters predict a storm and we know how important it is to seek shelter. So we decided to sail to Spanish Wells where we are better protected from the elements. The next morning, we wake up early, excited to get started. When we set sail we notice that there is only a light breeze of around 4 knots. We call that the calm before the storm. We motor towards the famous “current cut”, where the water rushes through a narrow passage at a speed of up to 10 knots. Timing is everything here so we need to be there by 8.15am to have a current of about 3 knots with us. As we approach the passage we are greeted by a friendly dolphin swimming alongside us. It bodes well and we feel confident. But just as we are about to enter the passage, the dolphin suddenly changes his mind and decides to stay on our side of the passage. We make it through the passage with ease, the boat cruising through the narrow passage at an exhilarating speed of 9.8 knots. It’s a special feeling and we all smile as we calmly sail on to our anchorage in Spanish Wells.

The rest of the morning is uneventful and eventually we motor all the way until we drop anchor in the sheltered bay. We are safe and sound, and the sense of relief is palpable. Of course, it doesn’t take long for the storm to erupt. The next two days will be cold, wet and windy. The rain fills our water tanks, so we won’t run out of fresh water anytime soon. Now if you’ll excuse us, we’re going to take advantage of the stormy weather by indulging in some of my famous chocolate brownies. Who says you can’t have fun during a storm?