Berry Islands

Hi there! Welcome aboard! This week’s adventure takes us to the Spanish Wells area, where we’ve been looking for Manatees in the Inner Channel. Our sailing trip to the Berry Islands took an unexpected turn when the wind suddenly changed direction and we had to make a crucial decision about where to anchor. We ended up anchoring behind White Bay right in front of a sunken ketch boat, which gave us the creeps. Curiosity made Jeroen and Rajesh decided to explore the sunken ketch boat, which eventually led to a rescue and almost a new hit song instead of a blog. So, sit back, relax and enjoy a delicious cup of coffee, tea or wine as we take you on this unforgettable journey.

After the sun finally peeked through the rain clouds, we were ready to explore the Spanish Wells area. Jeroen pumped the water out of our dinghy, which was half full and we started the engine and sailed into the inner canal. As we entered the channel, my heart skipped a beat when I saw a large sign warning us that Manatees, also known as sea cows, swim in the area. I had never seen a Manatee in the wild before and I was thrilled at the opportunity to encounter one. From then on my eyes were on the water, searching for signs of these gentle giants. We sailed the entire channel, around the island and marveled at the different sides of the island. Later that evening I scoured the internet for information on the Manatees in the Bahamas and discovered that they were very rare to spot. That was a little downer to find out. The next day we took a long walk around the island, looking for the immigration office to renew our visas and a supermarket for some fresh fruit and vegetables. There was a very nice man at the visa office who gave us the forms to fill out and then gave us all the necessary stamps and extended our visas until May 3, all at no cost! We were totally baffled and of course didn’t argue about this. We walked out with a big smile on our faces. We continued our walk around the island and enjoyed the surroundings. When we crossed a bridge, we saw a group of people who were completely ecstatic in the water. And then we saw it – a Manatee! I cannot describe the excitement that rippled through me at that moment. I didn’t even think about not having a bikini with me; I took off my shirt and just jumped into the water with the rest of my clothes on. The Manatee continued to eat quietly, paying little attention to those around him. It was a surreal and special experience to see the gentle giant in its natural habitat. When I came out of the water completely soaked, I couldn’t help but laugh at the absurdity of the situation. Here I was, like a little child, so happy. Spanish Wells was filled with unexpected surprises and unforgettable moments.

The next morning, we were ready to continue our journey to the Berry Islands. We were all looking forward to a nice sailing day with a nice downwind course of our 63 NM long trip. After breakfast and some final preparations, we hoist all sails and leave for our destination. As we sailed we all enjoyed the tranquility of the sounds of the sea and the wind. Some of us quietly read a book, while others took in the nature around us. However, after sailing about 38 nautical miles, we noticed that the wind had shifted further to the east than initially predicted. Concerned about the change in wind direction, we reloaded the wind charts and found that the wind was indeed turning easterly. Since the anchorage we had in mind was not advisable for this wind condition, we knew we had to make a decision about where to anchor. After much deliberation, as the Berry Islands don’t have many anchorages for deep drafted boats like ours, we finally decided to anchor behind White Bay, which was 7 NM closer than the other anchorage we had considered. As we approached the narrow passage we made a sharp turn to starboard and were surprised to see a sunken ketch boat with its masts above water. It gave us all the creeps! Fortunately, we were relieved to find three other boats anchored a little further down the passage. We followed their example to look for an anchorage there as well. However, we realized just too late that the depths on the chart weren’t accurate, and before we knew it, we’d hit the bottom!

Fortunately, it was probably a sand hill and we still had momentum, so we were quickly released. We made an attempt to anchor a little further on but the anchor would not hold, we had to turn the boat around and sail back over the shallow part. Unfortunately, we were only able to anchor just in front of the sunken ketch and I can tell you, it wasn’t the most reassuring feeling! To make sure everything was okay, Jeroen swam over to the anchor to make sure it was properly hooked into the sand and not behind a piece of rock. We were relieved when he gave us a big thumb up! The boat had secured itself very well in the sandy bottom. A comforting thought. Jeroen and Rajesh were determined to explore the sunken ketch and nothing could stop them. Jeroen took the SUP boards and tied them behind the boat to grab the paddles. Little did he know that one of the planks had loosened and was slowly drifting away. When he saw it he sang “Daar gaat ze (There she goes)” by Clouseau, not realizing that he was about to have to be rescued himself. He grabbed the other SUP board and quickly went after the board that had come loose. A long way further he got hold of the SUP board and Jeroen started the long paddle trip back to the boat. Meanwhile, Rajesh jumped into the water with an extra paddle and the GoPro to help his dad. After which he soon realized that, that was probably not such a good idea. The current in the passage was already increasing considerably. Fortunately, he arrived safely at Jeroen’s and took over a SUP board from Jeroen, but after 45 minutes of fighting against the current, they were both exhausted. They decided to let go one of the SUP boards and continue together on one SUP board. But even that didn’t work. Completely exhausted, they paddled to an island, leaving me in suspense as I watched it all from the boat. I was ready to jump in the dinghy and sail towards them, but the dinghy was still raised and the outboard had been taken off for the longer sail. Although I could still get the dinghy down on my own, it was impossible for me to mount the outboard on by myself. I was left helpless as I watched them struggle to get back to the boat. Jeroen once again tried to paddle to the boat on his own, but the current is just too strong. I eventually called the three boats via VHF radio to see if anyone could help. Fortunately, I got a response from the catamaran “Another Summer”, who luckily had their dinghy in the water and were willing to help. He went with his dinghy to Jeroen and Rajesh and rescued them from the island. To our surprise he told us that our other SUP board was found by the motorboat called “Super Duck” right next to them. He was kind enough to also pick up our SUP board. We couldn’t thank him enough. We handed over a bottle of rum and a bottle of red wine as a thank you. My men and both paddle boards were safely back on board. What a relief! It was an adventure we will never forget. The lesson we learned? Always make sure you’ve got something securely tied, otherwise you might end up stranded on an island while someone else stays behind on the boat and comes up with lyrics for a new hit song instead of a blog.

It’s a dark and stormy night, the wind howling and the waves crashing against our boat like a drunken sailor stumbling home from the pub. Despite being firmly anchored, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of unease as we bounced up and down on the waves. We checked outside several times to make sure we weren’t the next unlucky sailors to end up at the bottom of the ocean. Fortunately, we made it through the night safely and woke up with a feeling of exhaustion. We knew we wouldn’t be spending another night in that spot, so we checked the wind charts and were able to set course for our original anchorage in Great Harbour Cay. But not before Rajesh snapped some amazing drone photos and videos of the area.

As soon as we arrived in Great Harbour Cay, our first mission was to find a grocery store. Our drinking water had suddenly taken on a chemical taste and we didn’t want to risk getting sick. After a dinghy ride and a 45-minute walk we found the supermarket and stocked up on as much water as we could carry. The real heroes of the day were the nice locals who offered us a lift in their car when they saw us with our heavy backpacks. Back on the boat, we were determined to solve the mystery of the polluted water. Jeroen and Rajesh put on their detective hats and got to work. Was it something in the tank? Was the water in the jerry can, which we had put in it, not good (most logical cause)? To be sure, a water hose with some algae growth has been replaced for a new one and we turn on the water maker to refill the tank. Jeroen and Rajesh couldn’t find anything special and we suspect that the water in the jerry can we put in was not good. For the next three days, we had the pleasure of exploring the mangroves of Shark Creek Inlet. And let me tell you, we were turtle-amazed! We have never seen so many turtles together. They were all very shy, but who can blame them? They were suddenly surrounded by a number of curious homo sapiens cruising around their territory. We even got to see a small shark, a spotted eagle ray and a stingray! And let’s not forget the chirping chorus of various bird species. Mangroves are really a special piece of nature. It’s like Mother Nature’s secret hideout, full of fascinating creatures and breathtaking beauty.

From here we will only sail south again, and today we head for Soldier Cay, which is about 8 nautical miles away. During this sailing trip we manage to catch a barracuda, and instead of throwing it back, we decide to keep it and offer it to the sharks as a treat. Soldier Cay was a nice anchorage and we haven’t seen so many boats together in ages. Around 5 pm I cut the barracuda into small pieces and hang the head on a rope in the water. I don’t use a fishing hook because I don’t want to catch the sharks. It takes about 20 minutes for the first sharks to approach our bait. Two nurse sharks and a Caribbean reef shark swim towards us, a bit reluctant at first, but slowly they come to the back of the boat where I could calmly give you pieces of barracuda. I was very thrilled with this meeting.

The next day we decide to explore the area further and sail our dinghy in 30 minutes to Hoffman’s Cay. As soon as we reach the island, we feel like stretching our legs and decide to take a walk to another “Blue Hole”. The Bahamas has several. We arrive at a rock face that many people jump off, but also discover a narrow road that leads to a cave, which is an alternative way to enter the water. The surroundings are beautiful and the green color of the water on the edges give this “Blue Hole” a unique look. Rajesh makes some nice drone shots. Then we walk down and Jeroen and Rajesh go snorkeling. I decide to sit it out because my fear of the sea monsters in this dark depth is too great. This “Blue Hole”, is full of small fish and oysters, and the green algae that go into the depths give the area a unique and fascinating view. When we get back to the dinghy, we love to take a refreshing dip in the beautiful clear waters of the sea. After we have swum enough, we like to explore the area a bit more with the dinghy. There is always something new to discover and it’s fun to see what else is out there. Finally, we return to the boat. When Jeroen went into the water the next day to remove the algae growth from the hull, the nurse shark came back to the boat for his free meal, Jeroen dares to stay in the water for a while and the shark even comes so close that he could touch him. Cleaning the hull will have to wait a while. In two days, we will sail on and head south. We are excited to explore the more southerly islands of the Exuma’s and discover all the beauty they have to offer.