The Panama Canal: The crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean

“Suddenly, I hear a squeaking sound, indicating that something is stuck in the propeller. Damn! We sailed too close to the buoy, which I had warned about earlier. However, that warning was dismissed as unimportant by our advisor, Roy from the Panama Canal, who is on board to ensure everything runs smoothly. I shout, “There’s a line stuck in the propeller!” I immediately switch off the engine. When we shine a flashlight into the water on the starboard side, we see thick, long lines around the buoy, extending about 15 meters. According to Roy, that buoy shouldn’t be there, but that doesn’t help us much now. In my mind, I’m angry that I didn’t listen to my own feelings better, but at the moment, that doesn’t help either. Roy, our advisor, immediately shouts: “Someone has to get in the water. We have to be quick. Otherwise, we won’t make it to the lock, and we won’t get through today.” It’s 4:50 in the morning, and everything is still pitch black. Jeroen jumps into the water with diving goggles and quickly reports that he needs a diving light because he really can’t see anything there. Once again, he dives down while we all try to stay calm, while Roy keeps shouting for us to hurry up. It irritates and frustrates us, but we sensibly keep our mouths shut. When Jeroen surfaces again after what seems like hours, he explains: “There is a rope stuck in the propeller and around the keel, but there is simply too much tension on it. With all my strength, I cannot pull it around the keel. Besides, I only have about 8 inches of vision with the flashlight, so that’s not much.” In the background, we hear Roy talking to the Christobal Signal Station, which handles everything from there and relays our plight. Our hearts sink, and in our minds, we all think: this first attempt to go through the Panama Canal is over. Then Alex and Jeroen come up with a brilliant idea!

History of trade in Panama

When sailors make the decision to take a trip around the world, they are faced with a choice: there are two routes available to sail from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean. The first option is to sail around Cape Horn, the southernmost tip of South America. However, these waters around Cape Horn are known to be extremely dangerous, with gale-force winds, powerful ocean currents and the threat of icebergs, which have sunk many ships and sailboats to the seabed. Before we take on the challenge of the sailing route around Cape Horn, we will have to gain considerably more sailing experience. An alternative and safer route, although more expensive, is via the Panama Canal. The Panama Canal was originally built for immense container ships, and sailboats are only a small minority. They are treated more or less as an afterthought, literally, because they have to manoeuvre through the lock together with such a container ship.

When you study the technological ingenuity that went into building the Panama Canal, it’s hard to imagine that it all started in 1880. Karin and I spoke with Jean-Sebastien Purcelot, research manager at the Panama Canal Museum. The museum, founded in 1996, goes beyond showing the canal itself. Jean-Sebastien explains; “The museum delves into the journey through Panama and exploring its various transformations.

What I had not realized before, and what became clear during Jean-Sebastien’s tour of the Panama Canal Museum, is that trade routes from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean already existed before the construction of the Panama Canal. Panama’s national identity has always been closely tied to trade, reflecting a long-standing calling shaped by its unique geographic location at the crossroads of continents and people, which has made it an essential trading center throughout history.

Jean-Sebastien explains the historical significance of Panama’s trade; “The ebb and flow of the Panamanian economy is closely linked to the success of trade through the isthmus. During the colonial period and the 19th century, periods of growth were followed by a decline in competitiveness. The emergence of alternative routes, such as the Estrecho de Magallanes, posed a challenge to Panama’s economic prosperity. The fragility of the Camino Real, fraught with harsh conditions, tropical diseases and attacks from escaped enslaved communities such as the Cimarrones, added to its complexity.”

“As trade routes developed, Panama faced competition from other routes, impacting its economic vitality. The ability to bypass the Isthmus, particularly by using alternate routes through South America, reduced the need to cross Panama. “Pirates like Francis Drake and Henry Morgan further disrupted trade, creating an environment of uncertainty and economic decline,” Jean-Sebastien explains.

The success of trade through the isthmus depended on the robust service sector surrounding it. The Camino de Cruces, the most direct route through Portobelo, required extensive support services. Jean-Sebastien explains; “Each step along the Camino de Cruces involved the need to support both the mules and the people, making the journey not only a physical challenge but also a significant financial investment. The success of trade through the isthmus depended on the robust service sector surrounding it, with mule owners, hoteliers, and food and transportation providers playing a central role. Those who owned mules, hotels, and establishments that provided subsistence found themselves not only paving the way through the jungle but also reaping the benefits of a booming trade. However, this prosperity came at a cost, making goods more expensive and affecting the competitiveness of the Panama route.”

Natural factors, such as excessive rain, challenged the infrastructure of the colonial routes. “Paved roads in the jungle became impassable during heavy rains, affecting freight transport. Panama suffered neglect in the 18th and 19th centuries as trade declined, exacerbated by factors such as pirate attacks and the declining popularity of Portobelo trade fairs.”

Panama’s fortunes changed with the announcement of the California Gold Rush in 1849. The perilous journey across the United States caused a mass migration, making Panama a major transit point. The Camino de Cruces saw an increase in traffic as gold seekers began the arduous journey to California, leading to increased competition and the need for more efficient transportation solutions.

Construction of the Panama Canal began in the late 19th century, with the French embarking on the ambitious project in the 1880s under the leadership of Ferdinand de Lesseps, builder of the hugely successful Suez Canal of 1869. Despite the promising start, progress on the canal project has been painfully slow. Technical problems and frequent landslides in the heavy tropical rains caused significant delays. “The region was plagued by tropical diseases such as malaria and yellow fever, which were wrongly thought at the time to be caused by fumes and bad air rather than mosquitoes. This misconception, together with the ambitious attempt to build a sea-level canal similar to the successful Suez project, contributed to the project’s ultimate failure.” Jean-Sebastien explains. Despite the loss of more than 5,000 lives and the partial completion of some infrastructure, poor planning, inadequate resources, and financial scandals eventually led to the company’s bankruptcy. Ferdinand de Lesseps, the visionary leader of the project, died in 1894 at the age of 89.

The United States had long recognized the strategic importance of a canal through Central America. However, the opportunity to acquire the assets of the bankrupt French company ultimately convinced President Theodore Roosevelt to choose the French route. However, it was American support for Panama’s independence from Colombia in 1903 that ultimately paved the way for the United States to agree to a treaty. This treaty permanently granted them a strip of land 10 miles wide across the Isthmus of Panama. The neutrality, also called “the Canal Zone”, would be guaranteed by the United States and administered by the Panama Canal Commission (an agency of the US government).

In 1904, the United States began the monumental task of building the Panama Canal. Jean-Sebastien explains a key factor that contributed to their success: “the meticulous focus on sanitation by the newly established Isthmian Canal Commission (ICC). The United States recognized that mosquitoes were responsible for the spread of yellow fever and malaria and instituted a comprehensive sanitation program. This included the reconstruction of the entire sewage system in Panama City, as Colón and several workers’ homes lacked such infrastructure. To combat the mosquito-borne diseases, continuous spraying campaigns were conducted, which significantly improved the living conditions of workers and successfully eradicated the health risks associated with these deadly insects.”

The main motivation behind the canal’s construction was to facilitate faster maritime trade routes, reducing the time and distance it took for ships to navigate around the southernmost tip of South America. Revolutionary technologies were used, including the use of lock systems to manage the varying heights along the canal route. Completed in 1914, the construction was a monumental achievement, but the conditions the workers faced were gruelling. Despite these challenges, the Panama Canal is a testament to human perseverance and engineering ingenuity, marking a unique and pivotal achievement in the history of infrastructure development.

Continuing with our Panama Canal crossing

Alex and Jeroen came up with a smart solution to reduce the tension on the line. Jeroen attached a long line to the buoy and Alex then stretched it around our electric winch. This allowed us to maneuver the boat closer to the buoy against the current, which reduced the tension of the line around the keel. Roy shouted, “Good, good, let’s keep going. We have to be quick or we won’t make it.” Rajesh also jumped into the water with diving goggles to assist Jeroen in releasing the lines. The stress of the loud shouting from above and the time pressure made it difficult for both Jeroen and Rajesh to hold their breath for long. However, they managed to remove the line around the keel. Rajesh asked if anyone else could go into the water. Without hesitation, Karin dived straight into the water with diving goggles. Jeroen came upstairs and announced that everything was fine now, which elicited a small sigh of relief from all of us. Karin said: “Let me go down again just to be sure.” Unfortunately, upon her return, she reported that several thin lines were still stuck in the propeller. We can try to cut these with a knife. We quickly grabbed a knife, after which Jeroen and Karin repeatedly went down to cut the remaining lines from the propeller. After Rajesh was back on board, I suggested, “Maybe it would be wise to prepare a diving set.” Together, we gathered all the supplies, and Rajesh started preparing a diving set. Another ten minutes pass when both Karin and Jeroen finally surface with the announcement that all lines have been removed. We can start the engine. Jeroen and Karin were barely on board when Roy was already standing next to me with the urgent message that we had to hurry, “full speed ahead”. Everyone on board barely had time to catch their breath, as all the lines and oversized fenders still had to be attached. I stood at the helm and hesitantly followed Roy’s quick instructions. “Go, go, faster, faster!” he shouted. At a speed of 7.5 knots, we tried to reach the other boats at the entrance to the Panama Canal. All five of us are under pressure; are we going to make it? This situation has cost us 50 minutes. There, we still have to deal with challenges at the entrance to the Panama Canal, where we still have to “nest”.

History of the Panama Canal

We interviewed Rodrigo Noriega, a Panamanian environmental lawyer with a PhD in international environmental law. He works for non-profits and international organizations and emphasizes that his opinions are independent of the newspaper La Prensa, where he is also a columnist. He explained the reasons why the United States was so determined to build the Panama Canal at the time and said; “The United States constructed the Panama Canal because of a critical military need, underscoring the strategic importance of rapidly moving the U.S. Navy between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. Initiated and completed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, the canal served the needs of the U.S. Navy exclusively from August 15, 1914 to December 31, 1999.

During these 75 years, the United States managed and subsidized the canal, making it an important facilitator of American trade and shipping. In particular, transit fees for ships travelling between the United States and Asia were subsidized, which was crucial for promoting economic exchanges.

During the tour of the Panama Canal museum, Jean-Sebastien explained more about the history of the canal. During the construction of the Panama Canal, the United States implemented a silver and gold wage system, which resulted in racial and national segregation. The Gold Payroll, intended for white Americans, offered significantly higher wages and better living conditions, creating a clear gap with the Silver Payroll. The silver payroll included Caribbean workers, Europeans, and even some African Americans. This segregation went beyond race and nationality, with Europeans placed on the silver payroll. This system, influenced by racial segregation in the United States, resulted in inequalities in housing and wages within the Canal Zone. The discriminatory practices reflected the prevailing racial prejudices of the period. United States’ control of commissaries and services deepened economic inequality, as those on the gold payroll had access to higher-quality goods. Outside the Canal Zone, Panamanians faced limited access to these essential services, contributing to resentment and economic inequality. The legacy of the silver and gold wage system continued to influence social and economic dynamics, and this aspect is highlighted in the Panama Canal Museum exhibition, which reveals the socio-economic tensions surrounding the canal’s construction.

The turbulent history of the Panama Canal reflects a complex relationship between Panama and the United States. Tensions arising from ambiguous treaties and dissatisfaction with the United States’ presence reached a breaking point in 1964 when violent protests resulted in the deaths of three Americans and numerous Panamanian students. The aftermath of this pivotal moment provided the basis for a re-evaluation of existing treaties and ultimately led to renegotiations on the future of the Panama Canal.

Between 1935 and 1964, the Canal Zone witnessed a series of important events that shaped the relationship between the United States and Panama. The 1935 Treaty of Relations strengthened Panama’s sovereignty over its territory while granting U.S. control over the Canal Zone for the operation and defence of the Panama Canal. During World War II, the canal played a crucial role in global logistics. However, tensions arose after the war as Panamanians attempted to renegotiate the treaty, leading to the 1955 Flag Riots and increased nationalist sentiment. The Martyrs’ Day riots of 1964 marked a turning point, with a violent clash between Panamanian demonstrators and American military personnel. This incident underscored the need to reexamine the treaty’s unequal terms. Ultimately, these tensions set the stage for negotiations that culminated in the Torrijos-Carter Treaties of 1977, which paved the way for the gradual transfer of the Panama Canal to Panama, completed on December 31, 1999, ending decades of U.S. control.

After the transfer to Panama on December 31, 1999, the canal’s fees were adjusted, reflecting Panama’s autonomy and emphasizing the need for financial sustainability. This shift marked a transition from subsidized transit to a profit-oriented approach, in line with Panama’s responsible management of the canal and its resources.

In 2006, a groundbreaking project was launched to modernize the Panama Canal and increase its transit capacity. This initiative, known as the “Panama Canal Expansion Program” or the “Third Set of Locks Project,” marked a crucial milestone in the canal’s history. With the increasing demand for global shipping and the emergence of larger cargo ships, the canal’s infrastructure was upgraded to meet the growing demands of the maritime industry.

The culmination of the expansion was the construction of advanced locks, called the “Panama Canal locks” or “Neopanamax locks.” These ingenious structures, larger than their predecessors, allowed the Panama Canal to accommodate ships of the “New Panamax” class. These new locks, in combination with deepening parts of the canal, offer a deeper passage, making it possible to guide ships with significantly larger loads through the canal safely. The project also included advanced technological systems to improve the management and safety of the canal.

The expansion of the Panama Canal, completed in 2016, had significant economic consequences not only for Panama but also globally. With an estimated investment of $5.25 billion, the project provided a strategic boost to international trade routes by increasing the canal’s throughput capacity. Companies could now more efficiently utilize the shorter maritime route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, leading to rethinking logistics strategies and ship design on a global scale. The Panama Canal Expansion symbolizes the continued evolution of global trade infrastructure to meet the ever-changing demands of the global shipping industry.

Continuing with our Panama Canal Crossing

As we approach the entrance to the first lock, we see an impressively large freighter waiting. We receive the message that we have to “nest” on the left with a beautiful, brand new Oyster 595, which is taking part in the Oyster rally. A catamaran is already nestled on the starboard side. The nesting went smoothly, and we were told that we should not have arrived five minutes later. The first wave of stress falls away from us; we made it. We sail quietly into the lock, a special experience to be so closely connected. Along the quay, the line traders walk in sync with our boat, ready to throw the weighted lines at us. We quickly need to secure our own line with a bowline knot. The line traders then pull up our lines. As soon as we are at the right height in the lock, the lines are placed around the bollards. Somewhat tired, I see a smile appear on everyone. Slowly, the realization dawned that we could relax. The relief and satisfaction grow, and we can finally begin to enjoy this exciting moment of passing through the locks of the Panama Canal.

How the locks operate:

1.As a ship sails from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, the lock prepares to receive it. This is done by making chamber I equal to sea level through the opening of valve A. In 8 minutes, 26 million liters of fresh water from Gatun Lake, which is necessary for thcanal’s’s functioning, are released and flow into the sea.

2. When the levels are equal, lock dome A opens and the ship enters the first chamber.

3. After the ship is in room I, lock dome A is closed. When opening valve B, the vessel is raised by equalising chambers I and II.

4. After equalising rooms I and II, lock dome B is opened and the ship moves to room II.

5. Lock dome B and valve B are closed. Opening valve C raises the vessel by equalising chambers II and III.

6. After equalising rooms II and III, lock dome C is opened and the ship moves to room III.

7. Lock dome C and valve control are closed. Opening valve D raises the ship to the level of Gatun Lake.

8. Lock Dome D opens and the ship sails to Gatun Lake, 26 meters above sea level, towards the Pacific Ocean. Another 26 million gallons of fresh water are released into the sea to receive the next ship.

9. Once the passage on the Pacific side is completed, the reverse process begins. The ship is lowered to sea level after another 26 million liters of freshwater from Gatun Lake are released into the ocean. Except for minor variations due to tides, the amount of water is basically the same at each lock, regardless of the size of the ship.

Once we have passed the first three Gatun locks, we are disconnected from each other outside the locks. The catamaran went first but made a steering error, which meant that everyone had to work hard to push the catamaran off the Oyster 595. This just went well. Then we went our separate ways, and it went smoothly. Now, we have a 28-nautical mile motor trip across Gatun Lake, which will take us about four hours. The Oyster sailboat and the catamaran go faster than us and sail ahead of us. We are also regularly overtaken by large freighters, which is an impressive experience.

Problems have arisen since the beginning of 2023 due to the low water level.

Around March 2023, I first read about the problems in the Panama Canal due to low water levels. Since the announcement of the drought in March 2023, the Panama Canal has faced significant challenges that are having a noticeable impact on its key stakeholders. Our advisor Roy Torres explains; “that the main cause of the drought in Panama is attributed to the El Nino phenomenon.” Reduced precipitation and lower water levels in the Panama Canal have limited transit capacity, resulting in significantly less shipping in the region. To cope with the shortage of water, the canal authorities have reduced the number of passages per day. This has led to a decline in daily transit traffic, starting with around 34 passages per day to 22 by December 2023. This level is expected to be maintained until the rainy season returns in April or May. Before the drought, there was an average of about 44 passes per day.

Roy Torres provided further clarification on the varying costs incurred by ships: “Smaller vessels typically pay approximately $300,000, whereas larger ones, particularly container ships and liquefied natural gas (LNG) carriers, may incur fees as high as $1.4 million for a one-way trip. For passenger cruise ships, boasting an impressive length of 396 meters, fares range between $1.1 and $1.2 million.”

This period of drought has primarily affected international shipping companies that rely on the Panama Canal as a crucial transit route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Not only were the number of passages limited, but the lower water levels also affected the draft of ships, leading to reduced cargo capacity, delays and higher operational costs. These developments not only have an economic impact on the shipping industry but also hit Panama’s financial revenues as tolls decline due to reduced throughput. Roy Torres shared: “To generate additional revenue, a sort of auction mechanism has emerged, with the highest amount for a single pass being $2.4 million. This significant amount was paid by a container ship, whose owner was willing to pay the additional cost of $1 million to ensure and expedite passage because he wanted to pass through the canal the next day.” Our advisor, Roy Torres, notes that smaller vessels, including sailboats and catamarans, have seen little to no disruption due to the drought. Furthermore, apart from the annual periodic increases, the costs have not been increased for sailing boats and catamarans. We paid $2885 dollars for the passage. This includes the costs of an agent, the rental of long lines and extra large fenders, our advisor Roy, who is on board during the passage, etc. You can see our invoice below.

Jean-Sebastien Purcelot, research manager at the Panama Canal Museum, was able to show us that the impact of reduced efficiency of the Panama Canal was especially problematic for countries such as the United States. “About 5% of world trade goes through the Panama Canal. That doesn’t seem like much, but it is quite a lot. Nearly 40% of ships transiting the canal enter or exit a U.S. port, underscoring the canal’s integral role in U.S. maritime affairs. In addition, it serves as a vital channel for trade between the west and east coasts of the US,” says Julian Hinz, from the Institute for the World Economy in Kiel. China is also highly dependent on the channel for its trade routes and logistics chains. The 2023 drought thus highlights the fragility of the global shipping infrastructure and emphasizes the importance of sustainable water management for the continued operation of this vital maritime passage.

Steven Patton is responsible for the physical monitoring program at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute in Panama. Its program collects meteorological and oceanographic data for scientific research, with a focus on understanding the impact of climate change on tropical ecosystems. This research informs decision-makers, such as the Panama Canal Authority, on how best to address these issues. Karin Wenger and I, Aagje van den Heuvel, interviewed Steven to understand better whether the drought is a one-off incident or whether Panama and, therefore, world trade must take this phenomenon into account as a permanently recurring situation.

In Panama, climate change is manifesting itself through shifts in precipitation patterns and the increasing frequency of extreme weather events. Stephen Patton, who oversees the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute’s physical monitoring program, emphasizes the importance of Panama’s extensive rainfall records spanning 143 years. Despite being one of the wettest countries in the world, it has suffered rainfall deficits in recent years, raising concerns about the operational challenges facing the Panama Canal. The current scenario, characterized by the third major El Niño event in 26 years (as a major El Niño event normally occurs once every 20 years), poses a potential threat to the canal’s operations. This raises questions about whether this is an anomaly or a sign of more common climate-related disturbances. While the exact attribution to climate change remains uncertain, Patton points to the consistency of increased severe storms and frequent dry spells, in line with climate change predictions.

The impact of El Niño on the climate in Panama creates unpredictability: major events occur every three to seven years. The clustering of severe El Nino events in recent decades, which deviate from historical patterns, raises speculation about possible influences of climate change. Predicting the randomness of the El Niño and La Niña cycles is challenging, testing the reliability of predictions for these phenomena. Now that La Niña has begun, it is expected to bring more rain, which could provide some relief from the current dry conditions. Steven Patton underlines the importance of continued rainfall for the Panama Canal, with possible beneficial effects on shipping, but also emphasizes that the canal will not be fully restored until 2025.

Karin and I also went to an information evening at the Bibliotheca Presidente Roberto F. Chiari about “Hablemos del Canal – Agua, Rio Indio y Canal” (Let’s talk about the Canal – Water, Rio Indio and Canal). Here, we spoke with Aristides Royo, the President of the Panama Canal Authority’s board of directors and Minister of Affairs for Panama Canal and John Langman, the Vice President for the Water Projects Office at the Panama Canal. His department is involved in exploring potential solutions to the water crisis and the future water needs of the Panama Canal. Despite Panama’s extensive river systems, the country faces an acute problem of water scarcity, which affects both the Canal basin and the local population. John Langman explains that in addition to prolonged drought, “our own actions have contributed to the depletion of water levels in the Channel reservoirs.”

Panama has the highest water consumption per person in Latin America, with a daily average of 507 liters, with approximately 45% lost due to leaks in the national government-run distribution network. The Canal also consumes significant amounts of water – between 83 and 98 million liters per transit in the Panamamax and Neopanamax locks respectively. In addition, Aristides Royo points out a problem with one of the locks, which is failing to hold the expected 65% of water, leading to water loss into the ocean. This technical problem urgently needs a solution.

This enormous demand, together with other threats to the Channel catchment, limits its ability to retain sufficient water for its essential functions. This means that Panama’s competitive position and contributions to development are at stake, as well as the drinking water supply for more than half of the population.

In terms of solutions, John Langman emphasizes the need to address excessive water use, especially in human consumption. Measuring and managing water use at individual and household levels is seen as a potential area for significant savings. By creating awareness and implementing measures to combat water waste, the canal authorities hope to reduce pressure on water resources.

John Langman and Aristides Royo also discuss possible long-term solutions, including consideration of Rio Indio as an additional watershed. However, the construction of a dam in Rio Indio is a long-term process and is expected to continue until 2031. Despite the challenges, John Langman expresses optimism and emphasizes the resilience and adaptability of the canal under changing conditions. Aristides Royo also explains that this requires two laws to support its growth. He explains the political sensitivity due to the upcoming elections and the decision to wait for the adoption of the new government before moving the agenda forward

However, it remains a complex problem that goes beyond individual behaviour. Structural issues in the water management system, urban planning, metering practices and the cost of water all contribute to the challenges. John Langman recognizes that tackling this problem will require a collective effort involving the Panamanian government, the Panama Canal Authority and the community at large. It is imperative that we work together to protect and conserve our natural resources for a sustainable future and the survival of our planet.

We ourselves experienced problems with the water management system during our four-day stay in a rented house in the Gamboa Rainforest. A broken water pipe meant that we were without water for two days while we were staying in the house with six people. After inquiring in the area, this problem appeared to occur regularly, and it was uncertain when the water would be available again. Although eating out was an option, the lack of water brought inconvenience not only to personal hygiene, but also to daily needs such as going to the toilet.

As experienced sailors, we are used to finding creative solutions. In this case we decided to go to the nearby Gamboa Rainforest Reserve Hotel. There we swam in the afternoon, had lunch, and used toilets and showers. Moreover, Karin and I filled buckets, watering cans and large water bottles with water at a nearby small harbour. We used this supply to flush the toilets in the house and do the dishes, which helped us to solve the inconveniences caused by the lack of water partly. We really enjoyed the beautiful nature. Rajesh has once again captured a variety of birds with his camera, including woodpeckers and several species of toucans, as well as monkeys, sloths and many more

Our Panama Canal experiences :

After four hours motoring across Gatun Lake, we slowly approached the last three locks. We received the message that the Oyster 595 and the Catamaran had passed through the Pedro Miguel lock only 10 minutes earlier. Because of this, we had to wait for a large freighter before we could continue sailing. Luckily, we were able to moor outside the lock and had a break of about 3 hours. During this waiting period, we alternated between naps, preparing food, and chatting, and the ladies enjoyed an energy boost with a Red Bull. Roy received the message that we could enter the lock. Passing the Panama Canal normally requires 2 line traders if you are “nested” with two other boats. However, in our case, we now needed the mandatory 4 line traders. The Pedro Miguel lock doors slowly opened, and we sailed in.

In the Gatun lock complexes, we were placed behind the large cargo ships to take advantage of the turbulence and wave movements generated by these behemoths. These waves can provide sailboats with stability during their passage through the lock. Now, in the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores lock complexes, we are positioned in front of the large cargo ships to avoid being affected by the powerful water flows released when the lock gates open. This reduces the risk of damage to the sailboats and facilitates smooth passage.

We nicknamed the freighter we are waiting for “La Tortuga”, or turtle, because of its slow speed. Now, we gradually descend to the height of Lake Miraflores. Here, we motor about 1.7 nautical miles until we reach the Miraflores locks. Tourists who want to visit the Panama Canal and watch the process can do so here. Next to the last two locks, there are stands where people can watch. Here, too, we wait another hour until the freighter is in place. We have received some nice photos from people watching live on the canal’s webcams, showing how small we are compared to the freighter. When you see the ship coming towards you, you naturally hope that nothing goes wrong because you won’t be left anywhere if the freighter were to shoot forward. Then we descend nine meters, and the tension is palpable because the Pacific Ocean can be seen from the Miraflores lock and the realization that we are almost there is clearly visible. The air smells the same, but the feeling is different. Somehow I am struck by the realization that here and now I am the furthest away from the Netherlands. To cross the Pacific Ocean from Panama to Australia is more than 8000 nautical miles. Of course, we will encounter various archipelagos along the way, but they are much further apart. When I look at the globe and focus on the Pacific Ocean, I cannot imagine that we are going to make this immense crossing. It feels wonderful and good; I’m happy and looking forward to it.

When approaching the last lock we feel some tension, partly due to stories about boats that sometimes get stuck due to the strong current. Luckily, this doesn’t seem to be a concern for us as we are the only boat. My main task is to ensure that the boat remains neatly in the middle of the lock. After descending the last nine meters, we reach the height of the Pacific Ocean. When the locks open, we sail out triumphantly, accompanied by cheers because we have achieved our goal. We continue our journey, another 12 nautical miles, along impressive quays with large companies where container ships are loaded and unloaded. It is already getting dark as we cover the last mile, and the overwhelming amount of lights is impressive. Halfway through, our advisor Roy is picked up by a boat, which he transfers to while sailing. A few miles further, another boat comes alongside us where we can throw in the long lines and oversized fenders, and then we are “free”. We sail the last mile to an anchorage at the La Playita Marina, where we will stay for at least 3 weeks.

Karin and I have finished conducting all the interviews for this blog, while Rajesh has applied for a one-year visa to French Polynesia at the French Embassy. Once his application is approved, we can commence our journey. Despite encountering some initial challenges, the five of us reflect on our Panama Canal crossing as a great experience. Everything proceeded smoothly, and we must commend the authorities for their excellent organization throughout the canal passage, which operates continuously, 24/7, 365 days a year! For now, we have all earned an anchor beer and toasted it to a successful Panama Canal crossing. Thank you, Karin and Alex, from Sailing Mabul, for your invaluable help during our Panama Canal crossing on My Motu. But not just for that; also for the fantastic time we had together, the unforgettable memories we made and the valuable lessons I learned in journalism. As I write these final words, I realize that you are both back on the Atlantic coast, ready to continue your adventures toward the Bahamas. Good luck and fair winds! We will miss you.