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From tropical adventures to technical trials, our time in Martinique
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From tropical adventures to technical trials, our time in Martinique

A short provisioning stop becomes a longer stay filled with hikes, encounters, boat problems and personal reflection.

7 October 2023 · Aagje van den Heuvel

Martinique, originally only planned as a stopover for groceries, turns out to be a longer adventure than expected due to mounting boat problems. In addition, I answered a question I received from Chantal: “What makes the lifestyle on a sailboat so special that you are willing to lose the love of loved ones?”

Back in Martinique, there were some tasks for the boat on our to-do list, but we also realized that we urgently needed to go shopping as our supplies were running low. That’s why we decided to rent a car for a period of three days.

Lisa and Akko from Sailing Choctaw are also here in Sainte Anne and over two evenings we got to know them better. Akko and Jeroen have worked at the same surf school in the past. Jeroen as a windsurfing instructor and Akko as a kitesurfing instructor. Lisa and Akko left the Netherlands for their sailing trip three years before we did. It’s very nice to meet each other now. We talked until the early hours and the time flew by. It was then time for Akko and Lisa to continue sailing. Hopefully we will meet again in Panama. For now we wish them safe and prosperous sailing trips.

The first two days we wanted to explore Martinique further, especially the northeastern part that we had hardly visited yet. We made stops in several picturesque villages, including: Le Marigot, Le Lorrain and Sainte Marie, and took beautiful walks along the coast. At Sainte Marie we discovered a small island off the coast that forms a tombolo with Sainte Marie itself. A tombolo is a narrow strip of sand that connects the island to the mainland, with the sea flowing around the island on both sides and meeting at this sand bridge. Rajesh took drone footage of this natural phenomenon. Later in the afternoon we drove to a peninsula and ended up at a popular surfing beach, where we enjoyed watching the surfers for a while.

We’ve often talked about hiking Mount Pelée, but it hadn’t happened until today. Today we finally decided to go to Mount Pelée and start our hike. As soon as we started, we immediately noticed that it had been a while since we had such a brisk walk. Our legs felt stiff and halfway through the trip it dawned on me that my condition was no longer what it used to be. I couldn’t help but exclaim, “We really need to take long walks more often from now on.” Jeroen and Rajesh completely agreed. The walk took us higher and higher up the mountain and every now and then we took a break to enjoy the view. Huge snails as big as my hand sometimes blocked our path and I don’t remember ever seeing snails that big.

Halfway through our trip we were hit by a heavy rain shower and within minutes we were completely soaked. Although we were wet to the bone, the cooling was more than welcome. The rain turned the hiking trail into a gushing waterfall, forcing us to hold on tightly to the rocks. This also made the path considerably smoother. After two hours of climbing we reached the crater and were rewarded with a breathtaking view. A beautiful rainbow appeared right below us. This was a special sight to look at a rainbow from above. Rajesh managed to take beautiful drone shots between the showers. Then we started our descent and when we were almost at the bottom, I started to feel muscle pain in my thighs and calves. My legs behaved strangely at times and I almost tripped a few times. Once downstairs I felt like a newborn giraffe trying to walk for the first time and honestly, that’s what it looked like. Those long legs of mine!

On the third day, before going grocery shopping, we decided to stop by a dive shop to buy a new regulator. Now we have three full sets of diving equipment and can practice diving with the three of us. Then we visited Jardin de Balata, a beautiful botanical garden designed by the French landscape architect Jean-Philippe Thoze. He founded this garden in 1982. This garden is home to more than 3,000 different species of tropical plants, including exotic flowers, palm trees, ferns and orchids, creating a vibrant explosion of color and fragrance.

What was also special in Jardin de Balata are the suspension bridges that are suspended between the treetops. Walking over these bridges gave us a different view of the gardens which was very beautiful. In addition to the abundance of plants, the garden is also home to various bird species, including the Hummingbird and colorful butterflies. Various corners have been created where you can sit and watch birds. We were happy that we still visited the gardens.

Then it was time for shopping. We drove to a supermarket and took an organized approach to restocking for the coming months. With our car fully loaded we returned to the boat.

After a few days full of adventures and discoveries, we were back on board with renewed energy. But before we could go any further, there were a few important jobs waiting for us. The anemometer failed in the last hour before we reached Martinique and the bilge pump had also decided to retire. A bilge pump is responsible for removing excess freshwater from the boat and preventing flooding in the engine room. A critical part that needed to be repaired.

In addition, we noticed that the engine power (RPM) was lower than normal since the last propeller maintenance. After a thorough inspection it turned out that we had to adjust the position of the propeller. That meant taking the boat out of the water, making adjustments to the propeller and then launching it back into the water.

We started by addressing the anemometer and bilge pump issues. A new bilge pump was quickly purchased from an Amel technician and with a little skill from Jeroen it was quickly installed. The anemometer appeared to have suffered water damage, causing the circuit board inside to break. We have now seen two anemometers fail within a year. The technician indicated that it has a two-year warranty and can handle the warranty for us. As a temporary solution, we tried removing the circuit board from the anemometer that had only worked for two weeks, but it turned out to be in even worse condition. Fortunately, we had receipts to prove that we had really purchased a new anemometer. Both anemometers therefore fall under the warranty scheme. For now we decided to have a new circuit board installed in our anemometer. This way we not only had a spare printed circuit board, but also an extra anemometer as a spare. It takes some time to arrange all the guarantees. We don’t plan to sail north during hurricane season anyway. So there is no immediate rush.

After repairing the anemometer, Jeroen turned his attention to the propeller. An appointment was made and two days later we got out of the water. However, when we weighed anchor, I noticed that steering to port was not smooth; it seemed to block. And as if that wasn’t enough, we were confronted with severe weather, complete with torrential rain and thunder. It was a nerve-wracking situation, especially as we had to navigate between other yachts and wanted to avoid collisions at all costs. Finally, with the help of the bow thruster, we managed to carefully sail to the crane, where Jeroen could get to work. He tried the “old” settings, but unfortunately the propeller remained silent. In a mild panic, Jeroen shouted that something was wrong and that we had to get out of the water again.

For the second time our boat was taken out of the water and Jeroen asked for help from a Max Prop mechanic. Together they assessed the situation. Unfortunately, we don’t appear to have the correct start settings, so it was a bit of a gamble to find the right pitch. We hoped for the best. The next morning the tension was palpable. Fortunately there was no wind and there were no other boats to cause a fuss when pulling it out of the water. This allowed us to carefully maneuver out of the crane using the bow thruster, which luckily went smoothly as there was no wind. Unfortunately, all our efforts proved in vain; we still have less engine power than before. We decided to contact Amel.

An appointment with Amel is scheduled for October 17 to have two steering racks replaced. Jeroen was quite disappointed with the problems with the propeller and steering wheel, which made us inflexible at that moment to just sail somewhere. Not even when a heavy storm is lurking. Fortunately, the last four storms and hurricanes have passed over the islands.

As a distraction, Rajesh has discovered a few hiking trails around Sainte Anne, called La Trace des Caps. We decided to walk to Salines. A walk mainly through the woods. It was a warm day with little wind, but the trees provided welcome shade from the bright sun. The smells of the forest and the damp earth tickled our noses and all around us we were surprised by different species of crabs, lizards and birds. It was Sunday, so on some beaches we walked along we saw rows of motorboats playing loud music. Local people were chatting or dancing in the water, while some men were busy barbecuing meat. Less than a hundred meters further it seemed as if we were alone in the world. Only the sound of our footsteps in the grass and the chirping of birds in the trees filled the silence around us. The coastline varies from beautiful, white sandy beaches to places where the waves bounce against imposing rocks. Saline has a beautiful beach with numerous cozy beach bars. After a walk of about six kilometers we reached Saline and rewarded ourselves with a tasty lunch of Colombo chicken, accompanied by a large glass of cold drink. The water then invited us for a swim before we started our six kilometers return journey.

We are busy finishing our to-do list and try to alternate it as much as possible with beautiful walking tours. For now, at least until October 20, we will remain in Martinique, where we will closely monitor the hurricanes in the Atlantic Ocean.

“Love and life on your own course: Dancing to the rhythm of the heart”

In response to our evaluation blog, I received the following question: “What makes the lifestyle on a sailboat so special that you are willing to lose the love of loved ones?” I was recently asked this question and it really got me thinking.

Love and life on your own terms; two themes that are apparently different, but in reality can be deeply connected. Heath Ledger once said: “One of my biggest mistakes in life is thinking people will show me the same love I’ve shown them.” This statement raises questions about love and expectations and it reminds me that love is often complex, full of nuance and unpredictability.

Love, that beautiful, complex and elusive feeling that can hold us all in its grasp. As the text tells us, the biggest challenge with love is often the expectations we attach to it. Love comes in many shapes and sizes and everyone expresses it in their own unique way. It is a dance of the heart and every dance is different.

We all have our wants and non-negotiable needs when it comes to love. We want our love to be reciprocated, shared and appreciated. It is unrealistic to expect others to love us in exactly the same way we love them. Each of us carries our own life story, baggage and perspective, which leads to different ways of loving. And that is where the beauty of love lies: in its diversity and nuance.

Imagine love is a dance instead of a transaction. It’s not a question of, “This is what I’m giving you, what are you going to give me?” Love shouldn’t be full of conditions. Of course, it requires people to meet somewhere in the middle and commit to the relationship, but if we approach love as a deal, a contract, or with set expectations about how it should be reciprocated, it leaves little room for magic and is there is all the more room for disappointment.

Love is not a business strategy where we expect an ROI (Return on Investment). It is an unpredictable journey where sometimes we have to let go and allow love to grow from that space, or sometimes even to disappear. Sometimes accepting the loss of that love is the only solution, no matter how difficult that may be. That is something we must fully embrace.

In a world where we are often encouraged to strive for control and security, it can be difficult to embrace the insecurities of love. Perhaps that is the essence of love: the ability to trust, let go and dance to the rhythm of the heart. It doesn’t mean that we should ignore our needs and boundaries, but rather that we be open to the possibility that love can surprise us and that it doesn’t always follow a set script.

Living your own course, as Jeanne Phillips suggests, is a powerful mantra for life. For me it means giving yourself permission to step off the beaten path, follow your own path and write your own story. For us, this decision meant leaving the safe harbor and braving the open ocean, in the literal sense, by traveling around the world on a sailboat.

Previously, we lived our lives fairly according to society’s expectations. We had a comfortable job and a more predictable life, but deep down we longed for adventure and freedom. Then I remembered Jeanne Phillips’ words and realized it was time to take off the mask and follow my own path. For me, living without worrying about what others thought meant giving up the security of a steady income and chasing our dreams instead.

The decision to leave the safe harbor and brave the open ocean was not without risks. Many thought we were crazy and questioned our choice. But I reminded myself that we only have one life and we wanted to live it on our own terms. Sailing around the world was a dream that had always attracted me and I didn’t want to regret not pursuing it. So we took the risk and embarked on this adventure, knowing it would shape us in ways we could never have imagined.

As we sail around the world, we discover not only exotic destinations, but also parts of ourselves we never knew. The tranquility of the ocean gives us space to think, to grow and to discover our deepest desires and passions. I realized that I was more than my 7-to-5 job and that my true calling was somewhere in the middle of the ocean.

The path of self-discovery is sometimes challenging, but we are determined to live our lives without caring about the opinions of others. Connection with adventurous souls. The most remarkable thing about this trip is that we meet many like-minded adventurers along the way. People who, like us, have chosen to leave the traditional path and follow their own adventurous paths. Life at sea brings us into contact with people from all over the world and our shared passion for adventure strengthened our bonds.

As I write these words from the deck of our sailboat, with the rain pouring down and thunder and lightning lighting up the sky, we are anchored in Martinique and I realize that we are living a life without regrets. We only have one life and we must live it to the fullest, without worrying about what others think. Our decision to sail around the world has not only given me unforgettable experiences, but also a deeper understanding of who I am and what I want. I hope my story inspires others to find their own path, pursue their own dreams, and live a life that is truly their own.

Love and living on your own course, they form an intriguing connection. In the world of unpredictable love and the freedom to follow your own path, lies the opportunity to truly blossom and embrace the magic of life. So, let’s celebrate love in all its complexity and nuance. Let’s let go of expectations and dance with our hearts instead. Perhaps we will discover that the greatest beauty of love lies in the unexpected twists and turns, in the moments when we surrender to the magic of the moment. Love is a dance and in that dance we find the true meaning of connection and happiness.

Thank you for this question, Chantal. By answering your question, you have unintentionally helped me in my own process of further learning to let go.

MESSAGES ON BOARD

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