Between tradition and tourism: The Gunas in the San Blas Islands

Meet Victor Morris, a 73-year-old Guna elder living on Cayo Hollandaise in the San Blas Islands. He’s worried because he thinks everything here is about money these days. It’s not just about coins and notes; it changes the way we think and takes control of our minds. Imagine arriving at the paradisiacal San Blas Islands, surrounded by crystal clear waters and white sandy beaches. But beneath this idyllic surface lies an intriguing story of the Guna people, who are trying to find a delicate balance between preserving their age-old traditions and the impact of growing tourism.

The Guna people, residents of Guna Yala, also known as the San Blas Islands, cherish a deep-rooted Guna culture intertwined with age-old traditions and the art of molas. Victor points to a growing cultural tension in Guna Yala, where traditional values and practices clash with external influences from tourism and climate change. Also, Mola Lisa, a 62-year-old Guna- “Omeggid”, which in their language means “like a woman” because she was born as a boy. She emphasises that the Guna Yala region is undergoing significant changes. “Our unique traditions and rich culture are in danger of fading,” she says. Interestingly, Mola Lisa challenged the perception that tourism itself causes negative changes, claiming that it is the internal behaviour of the community that needs attention.

We’ve recently seen some interesting changes on Cayo Hollandaise ourselves. When we sailed there again two weeks later, it looked different. The Gunas had burned plants to widen the paths to the restaurant and placed hammocks between the palm trees for which you have to pay. In addition, a small nearby island now charges $3 for anyone who wants to set foot on its shore. It is clear that big changes are taking place in this beautiful place.

Mola Lisa explains the crucial role of “Sailas” leaders, who have power in both politics and religion. These wise men visit the communities to share cultural wisdom with the younger generation. Sailas not only protect cultural heritage but also effectively act as protectors of our identity. By singing old mythical and spiritual songs, history is told to the community and in this way, they contribute to keeping history and traditions alive. Tourists are not welcome during these ceremonies. Although men usually hold official positions, it is women who make crucial decisions and manage the money. In a traditional Guna wedding, it is customary for the men to move in with the woman’s family after marriage.

The most important changes in life, birth, maturation and death, are marked by special mythical and spiritual songs. There are two essential ceremonies, both dedicated to the girls. The first, the “inna tunsikkalet”, occurs when the girl has her first menstrual period. During this time, the mother and other women from the village will wash her with seawater. The girl is painted completely black with jagua juice to protect against evil spirits, and her hair is cut off. The second puberty ceremony is “the inna-suit”, where the community celebrates the girl’s transition to womanhood. These rituals are usually followed by days and nights of spiritual songs, dancing, feasting and drinking and last from one to several nights. “When girls stay outside the village, for example, because of school, they must return to their village for this ceremony. If they fail to do so, the family risks a fine of USD 500,” Mola Lisa explains.

When a death occurs, a deep hole is carefully dug into where two sturdy sticks are placed. The ritual involves carefully wrapping the body with a special cloth, after which it is placed in an honourable hammock. This hammock is hung respectfully between the two sturdy sticks, symbolising the connection between the earth and the spiritual world.

Mola Lisa’s mother noticed that her son was different and unique, and in their culture, they are not surprised if a boy wanted to be a girl. They are welcome because the women are the guardians of tradition and pass on their knowledge to the younger generation. At the age of six, she learned all about the making and spiritual significance of molas, unique traditional garments worn by Guna women. These intricate textiles, decorated with patterns drawn from trees, plants and nature, were gifted to the Guna Yala community by the four Nadili sisters, celestial beings drawn from the stars. The molas act as a bridge connecting the earthly realm to the heavenly and represent a profound connection to nature and spirituality. As Mola Lisa explained, molas are worn exclusively by the Guna women and serve a profound purpose: protection from malevolent spirits. Even though Mola Lisa does the same work as all the other women on her island and has the status “as a woman”, she is not allowed to wear the molas herself. The elaborate designs on each mola have a specific meaning; For example, the color red means protection against negative forces. It is fascinating to discover how these garments, rooted in tradition and spirituality, play a crucial role in protecting the wearers from evil and malevolent influences.

Victor describes the evolution of traditional Guna clothing into a commodity. Initially, molas were not allowed to be sold, but this practice has changed over time under the influence of money and tourism. The sale of molas is seen as an important change. Commercialising these traditional clothes undermines their spiritual and cultural significance because production and sales are too focused on the tastes of tourists, and there can be pressure to compromise on the traditional meaning or authenticity of the items.

During our stay in the San Blas Islands, we were visited almost daily by the Gunas in their traditional kayak boats known as “Ulus”. These boats were filled with vibrant and colourful molas, which not only served as decorative items but were also offered as wine holders, paintings or kitchen aprons. Cheerful children’s faces looked at us, smiling and hopeful, proud to show what they had made. It was sometimes difficult to reject their offer and see them leave disappointed.

The San Blas Islands, also known as the Guna Yala Islands, are an archipelago off the northeastern coast of Panama in the Caribbean Sea. This cluster of 376 islands is part of the semi-autonomous Guna Yala district, which is inhabited by approximately 50,000 Gunas spread over 51 islands. The Guna community lives in modest huts made of tree trunks with palm leaves as roofing.

Sailing between these islands offers a beautiful and relaxing experience. You have plenty of options: you can join other sailors or choose an island all to yourself. However, there is one important point to note: picking up or plucking coconuts is strictly prohibited. Although not every island is inhabited by Gunas, they consider every coconut as their own. “Snatching” their merchandise and inappropriate “naked” swimming are among the biggest annoyances the Gunas have towards tourists, according to Victor.

When snorkelling, lifeless coral is mainly noticeable, with only occasionally a few fish. During a speargun expedition with James Evenson of Sailing Zingaro, the disappointment becomes palpable when he spots a grouper only once and misses his shot. We regularly see stingrays, nurse sharks and eagle rays swimming around the boat. It is sad to see how the Gunas sail past the boats in their canoes to sell their still too-small and young lobsters, fish and octopuses. Mola Lisa explains that this is mainly because the Gunas do not realise that by catching too many lobsters and fish, they are endangering their own livelihood. They even catch lobsters during the breeding season, which upsets the balance. Although there are actually rules, the area is too vast for the authorities to monitor everyone. Furthermore, they no longer use only fishing lines; many canoes are now motorised and use fishing nets. Most of the fish is sold to tourists because people want their money. In the past, the fish was distributed among the communities. Mola Lisa emphasises the importance of providing education to our own community while emphasising that the Gunas themselves must take responsibility in this process.

Suzan Richter, an 82-year-old solo adventurer from the United States, shares her fascinating journey from professional musician and concert cellist to sailor. Suzan’s love of the sea led her to purchase a boat in San Diego, California, in 1998, marking the beginning of her sailing adventures. Despite starting sailing relatively late in life, at the age of 57, she embraced the lifestyle wholeheartedly.

Suzan arrived in the San Blas Islands in 2007 and hasn’t really left since. When we ask her if she has experienced many changes in the dynamics of the islands, she says: ‘A remarkable transformation is the shift in accessibility and communication. Due to engine trouble, I needed a part from Panama City. Previously, a local resident bought the part, which was then flown here via a small plane. I went ashore with my dinghy and paid the pilot for the package, who passed the money on to the relevant seller of the part. However, the traditional method of obtaining supplies has evolved with the closure of some airports and constructing a road through the Guna community from the San Blas islands to Panama City. Suzan notes that the increasing number of boats and tourists in the region has increased significantly in recent decades.

The Guna people have also joined the smartphone trend. As a result, most Gunas are now connected to the world around them. The use of smartphones within the Guna community has contributed to broader access to information and communication options, allowing members of this population to now actively participate in the global digital community. Just like climate change and tourism, information via digital channels can also lead to a shift in values, norms and traditions.

In the search for a conclusion to the question about the Guna people seeking a delicate balance between the preservation of their age-old traditions and the impact of growing tourism, it can be concluded that this community is faced with a complex and challenging situation. The traditional values and rituals of the Gunas are threatened by external influences, especially the growing influence of tourism and climate change.

The testimonies of Victor Morris and Mola Lisa reveal both concerns and divergent opinions within the community about the causes of these changes. While some blame external factors such as tourism, Mola Lisa emphasises the internal responsibility of the community itself. This conflict between conservation and change is further illustrated by commercialising traditional clothing and the shift in natural resource dynamics.

The Sailas leaders play a crucial role in preserving the Guna identity, but their efforts face challenges. At the same time, Suzan Richter’s story reveals how traditional communication methods are also evolving, with both positive and negative consequences.

In conclusion, the Guna people are at a crossroads of conservation and adaptation. It is a struggle that is waged not only externally with tourist influences but also internally, between generations and within the traditional leadership structure. Preserving the age-old traditions requires not only protection from external threats but also a conscious effort by the Gunas themselves to cherish and pass on their values and rituals to future generations. The balance between tradition and tourism remains a delicate and crucial challenge for the Guna community.

It’s my birthday! Let’s elebrate With homemade apfelstrudel! by Karin and Alex

The San Blas Islands is also a place where sailors go before passing through the Panama Canal and starting the long passage to French Polynesia. Due to the drought of the canal, countless ghost stories have been spread through WhatsApp groups. We have been confronted with terrifying scenarios ranging from waiting times of 1 to 2 years and costs that could amount to 10,000 euros. To accommodate any delays, we have deliberately moved our date forward slightly and scheduled it for February 20th.

We did choose an agent, and his name is Erick. He arranged everything for us, and I can say nothing but positive words about him. He answered all our questions quickly, usually within 10 minutes to an hour, which made everything run smoothly. Even the payments, which we have heard many horror stories about, were easily made via a payment link with a credit card. Not ten times to an ATM to collect everything in cash and no deposit of 1000 euros that you have to get back after six weeks.

Despite the smooth preparation, we noticed that many sailors still struggled with fears and doubts, which sometimes led to the feeling that they were not quite ready for the crossing. Over the years, we have mainly learned to listen to our inner feelings. The three of us feel ready, but unfortunately our friends from Sailing Mabul have decided that they are not ready for this challenge yet.

We spent many evenings talking and sharing emotions because all five of us agreed that together we form a strong team and have a lot of fun. It hurts that we will not share this experience together. They will guide us through the Panama Canal as our hardliners, but after that, our shipping routes will separate for the time being. They are heading to the Bahamas to gain more experience with longer passages, and they will replace their rigging during the next hurricane season.

We set sail for French Polynesia and hope to meet again a year later, somewhere on an island in the Pacific Ocean.

Our next blog;

On February 19, we feel the first tensions rising for the next day. We are at Shelter Bay Marina, where we have an appointment with Erick’s assistant. From him, we will receive our lines and fenders and be told the exact time when we will pass through the Panama Canal. Read it all in our next blog.

photo’s of our jungle tour