Anse La Roche

Carriacou was founded by the French, but was ceded to the British along with Grenada in 1763. The majority of today’s inhabitants are of African descent, with the influence on the island mainly British, such as driving on the left, although French names are still noted, especially in the village of L’Esterre. The village of Windward was home to a group of Scottish boat builders who settled here in the 19th century.

Anse La Roche is one of the beautiful beaches of Carriacou in the Marine Park area and our next anchorage. This beach feels completely cut off from the world as it is surrounded by a dense deciduous forest and overlooks nothing but the Caribbean Sea. There is a unique rocky outcrop that attracts local birds and is great for snorkelling. It is also home to a unique beach bar experience. The bay has space for about 4 boats. During sunset, we drink a cocktail with all the other cruisers and in the evening, we all eat here. Fresh lobster, red snapper and conck curry were on the menu for everyone and everything is shared.

Alex from SV Mabul took some nice drone photos that he shared with us. We snorkelled every day. Rajesh and Jeroen also helped to catch lobsters and received a number of tips on what to look out for. I am very curious when we will have caught our first own lobster. To be continued. We are told that there is a very nice walking route. The High North Nature Trail. We walked this the next day.

The first part of the High North Nature Trail walk is fairly steep and takes you along a path that is not very well defined, but well-marked with red turtles. The trail winds through the fairly dense deciduous forest made up of a variety of tree plants and shrubs. The thickness of the vegetation means there are limited views and therefore no external reference points to help your general sense of direction. We were aware of our surroundings and therefore wary of the many beautiful things around us. If we weren’t careful, we would step on sleepy tortoises walking quietly on the trails. We also saw a tree that looked like a giraffe. I’m not kidding, it really does look like a giraffe! It’s just amazing what nature is capable of, even if it’s totally by accident. We also saw ants busy transporting leaves. We also pass the remains of a 2-meter-high stone wall, which were used as a cattle pen in colonial times. In fact, it is believed to date from around 1750. Close to the peak, the trail gets steeper again, but is well worth the effort once you reach it. Here you can enjoy sweeping views along the west coast of Carriacou, from the capital Hillsborough to Paradise Beach. Plus, from here you can see the three small islands that lie a short distance off the west coast: Jack-A-Dan, Sandy Island, and Mabouya. Walking a little further down you can see the east side of Carriacou with the beautiful vibrant turquoise waters of the tidal lagoon that you see just offshore and beyond that you can see the island of Petit Martinique, Petit Saint Vincent and the Tobago Cays. After 4 nights at Anse La Roche, the last two nights of which there was no question of much sleep, due to the shaking of the boat, it is time to lift our anchor and continue sailing. We sail back to Hillsborough Bay and to restock on board. Once back on the boat it is always later than you expect and we decide to spend the night here and sail to Grenada in the morning. This is a sailing trip of about 7 hours. That afternoon we cool off a bit in the water and snorkel around in the bay where we are located. Floating on the surface, snorkelling gives a relaxing, almost meditative experience in this calm water with all those beautiful colourful fish below you.

A nice place to sit during a quiet sailing trip is in de front op de boat, also called pulpit. Jeroen and Rajesh made this beautiful seat there on our boat. We are all proud of the beautiful result and it can be tested well during the sailing trip to St. George in Grenada. The sun was up for an hour and the waterline looks calm and relaxed. It almost looks like a mirror so smooth. From Carriacou it is 49 NM sailing and you pass several islands that belong to Grenada. Round Island, Caille Island, Diamond Island, Large Island, Saline Island and Frigate Island. There is little wind between 8 and 12 knots and we sail at a speed of between 3.5 and 6 knots towards St. George. On the way, we see few other sailboats, which surprises us somewhat. Due to the hurricane season, most boats would be around here. It takes us 8 hours and we decide to lie down in Port Louis with our boat. A lot of rain is forecast for the next 2 weeks and then it is nice to be able to stretch your legs when there is also a lot of work going on, on-board. In addition, Jeroen will regularly go back to a boat parts shop for some extra parts. Port Louis is a pleasant harbour where we also see several Amel boats. Exchanging information about upgrades, spare parts and/or other clever tricks takes a few evenings. Super nice.

Grenada is originally a volcanic island. It has a mountainous interior and several blast craters, including Lake Antoine, Grand Etang Lake, and Levera Pond. Grenada’s highest point is Mount St. Catherine, rising to 840 m above sea level. Other major mountains include Mount Granby and South East Mountain. Several small rivers with waterfalls flow from these mountains into the sea. The coastline contains several bays, especially on the south coast which is split into numerous thin peninsulas.

In 1763, the mainland was called Grenada when the British took control of the French who had named the country La Grenada. The name comes from Granada, given by the Spanish in the 1520s. When the British regained control, they failed in their efforts to rid the island of French influence imposed since 1649 when the French settled the island. Today, the islands of Grenada reveal influences of Native American customs, French and English settlements fused with African, East Indian and Caribbean ancestry. The first people to settle in Grenada were the Arawak-speaking Indians from South America. Archaeological sites have unearthed evidence of these settlers, revealing skilled farmers and fishermen who built their own boats, leaving behind skills we still have today. Other archaeological treasures include the petroglyphs in Duquesne Bay in the parish of San Marco, where carvings on large boulders depict faces and drawings from the past.

Grenada is also known as “Spice Isle” / “Spice Island”. Locally they grow 8 herbs here: The production of nutmeg and mace has been part of Grenada’s history for more than 100 years. The island was the second largest international exporter in the world after Indonesia. Grenada has its own Nutmeg Spice Festival, so important in culture and industry here. The nutmeg is used as a symbol on the national flag and many other promotional materials. Nutmeg is the main reason why the island is now called the “Spice Isle”. In addition to nutmeg, turmeric, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, bay leaf and ginger are produced. All ingredients for making a delicious stew!