Along the Path of Memories: Sailing with Henk and Yvonne in Martinique

Henk and Yvonne board our boat, memories of adventures in Australia resurface. Together we explore the bays of Martinique and make sure: sailing, being together and “bastards” make this week an unforgettable journey. After all the highs, hardships and historical ruins, an unexpected challenge awaits them when Henk’s sea legs leave him. The sea gives and takes, but their memories will forever move in the depths of their hearts.

Henk and Yvonne are no rookies when it comes to sailing, along with us. Our first encounter with sailing took place in Australia in 2003. It was an unforgettable adventure when we rented a sailboat for five days in the Whitsunday Islands and it is still etched in our memories. As soon as we anchored in a bay at night, we already felt that there was something mysterious about sailing. The wind caressed our faces as we sailed across the azure waters of the Whitsunday Islands, surrounded by beautiful pearly white beaches in this tropical paradise. It was there on those Whitsunday Islands that Jeroen and I really discovered the passion for sailing! The feeling of freedom and being one with nature was indescribable. It touched our souls and we knew: the sea will always have a special place in our hearts.

And now, 20 years later, Henk and Yvonne board My Motu, a boat they only know from pictures, and we embark on a ten-day adventure around Martinique. As we approached the beach, we felt the excitement on board with us. What will it be like for Henk and Yvonne to see the sailboat from the shoreline for the first time as we anchor? Henk said: “A feast of recognition and joy to see our children and grandson again, and that boat… wow, what a powerful sight! We wonder if we will experience the same feelings as during our adventures in Australia in 2003 And damn, as soon as we set foot on deck, everything feels familiar and like coming home.” It was such a great feeling that Henk and Yvonne decided without hesitation to leave the apartment immediately and spend the next ten days on board the boat.

They want to fully enjoy every moment of this long-awaited reunion. It is also a relief for us, because now we are not tied to tight sailing schedules and maximum distances per day. Sainte-Anne and Saint-Pierre were also viable destinations now. After lunch we sail first to Fort-de-France, where we stock up on extra provisions and try to check ourselves and the boat back in. As soon as we anchor, we explore the city and immediately feel the sweltering heat. Today is Saturday and that means most shops close at 2:30 AM, including the check-in location. Only the supermarket was open until eight tonight. We decide not to wander around Fort-de-France for too long. Once back on the boat, where the gentle wind brings cooling, we settle in and introduce Henk and Yvonne to the sundowner. A drink and something delicious while the sun slowly sets.

The next morning we will pick up the anchor after breakfast and start a sailing trip of about 7 hours towards Sainte-Anne. We all enjoy the beautiful view over the water and the coastlines of Martinique. We enjoyed letting Henk and Yvonne experience the sailing qualities of the boat. Despite the considerable amount of sargassum in the water, we can’t resist the temptation to throw out our fishing rod and give it a shot. Unfortunately, we have to run to the rod again and again to remove that pesky sargassum from the hook, instead of catching a tasty fish. It seems that our interactions with the seaweed play the main role in this fishing adventure, and we can secretly laugh about it. As we approach Sainte Anne we become curious about the crowds at Sainte Anne, after tropical storm Bret has blown over two days ago. Normally about 200 boats are anchored here. As we approach our anchorage we estimate that there are now about 100 boats at anchor. As soon as we have lowered the anchor, we try to check in in town. But yes, you guessed it, this time too we are too late and we take a short walk through the town before heading back to the boat. There we swim around the boat to cool down and then enjoy a nice sundowner. After dinner, it’s time for games, and man, oh man, we got five fanatics together! Henk and Yvonne are just as fond of games as we are. Especially the card game “bastards” is a favorite. Yes, sorry for the word, but that’s really what the game is called. The competition is there, and no one is willing to get the title of asshole (the loser!). Jokes fill the air as we plunge into the game.

The next morning, Jeroen, Henk and Yvonne head out to the village of Le Marin to get a baguette and finally check in with the authorities. In the meantime, we enjoy a rest day, filled with refreshing dives, pleasant conversations, a good book and delicious food. Henk and Yvonne fully enjoy the beautiful view of the coastline and the charming towns of Martinique. We briefly considered sailing on, but Henk and Yvonne indicate that they would like to stay a little longer to explore the area further. They are mainly concerned about being together with us and they feel no urge to sail to a new place every day. So we unanimously decide to stay here for another day. And what perfect timing! Tomorrow Jeroen and I have our 28th wedding anniversary, and here in Le Marin is a good place with all kinds of dining options to celebrate our anniversary with a dinner. We look forward to this evening and reminisce about the past 28 years.

In Sainte-Anne there is also the possibility to snorkel. We test the snorkels on board at the beach, then sail to an anchor buoy near a small reef and enjoy the underwater world. That evening almost everyone is ready for a game of cards, while I work on the next (“previous”) blog. There is an enthusiastic atmosphere and the cards are held with a poker face and everyone tries to outsmart each other. Wonderful to watch and listen to it from a distance. The next day the sun gives way to dark clouds and rain. Short rain showers accompany us during the day and we make the best of it. We talk, read and grab moments for ourselves. Tomorrow a small sailing trip is planned, and we set course for Anse d’Arlet or Grande Anse. When we enter the bay of Anse d’Arlet you look out on a charming town, with colorful Creole houses along the bay and cozy beach bars on the beach. Unfortunately, there is not enough space to anchor and we continue to Grande Anse, where there was enough space. Jeroen checks the anchor and immediately sees a large turtle swimming under him. Yvonne is lucky enough to see several turtles on the surface of the water. Henk was unfortunately just too late. While I prepare dinner, Henk, Yvonne Jeroen and Rajesh stretch their legs and walk around the town. After dinner, the dishes and a nice cup of coffee, we were in the mood for the next card round. Henk decided to try Jeroen’s lucky spot, hoping it would bring him more luck. Unfortunately, that turned out not to be the case. Anse d’Arlet is known for a few rocks that are about twenty meters from the beach and where, surprisingly, it is only three meters deep. The local fish seem to love it, especially when the beach is not too crowded. So, after our breakfast we decided to hike to Anse d’Arlet and snorkel around the rock. We were really amazed at the amount of fish and that they came swimming so close to us. After cooling off in the water, we enjoyed lunch on the beach. We took some more time to snorkel in the water before walking back to Grande Anse.

Rajesh inquired about a diving course he would like to do, and after consultation booked his level 2 course for next week. This week was extra special because not only did we celebrate our wedding anniversary, but it was also exactly one year ago that we started our sailing adventure. To celebrate, I made a lemon cheesecake and malaga ice cream as a treat. We continue our sailing adventure to Saint-Pierre. It was an exciting trip in which we experienced all facets of sailing. From calms and radiant sunshine to showers and unexpected gusts of wind that reached 35 knots (wind force 8). It was so sudden that Jeroen, who was busy in the kitchen preparing lunch at the time, had to drop everything and run upstairs to help reef the sails. With 3 reefs in all our sails we continued our course to Saint-Pierre.

Henk and Yvonne enjoyed experiencing all this, although not everyone from the visitors would have said so quickly. Once we arrived in Saint-Pierre, we all explored this city full of history. Saint-Pierre was once the bustling capital of Martinique and was known as the “Paris of the Caribbean”. Unfortunately, the city was destroyed in 1902 by the volcanic eruption of Mont Pelée. Almost the entire population perished from the lava flows and poisonous gases. There were only two known survivors: prisoner Louis-Auguste Cyparis and a local resident named Léon Compère-Léandre. The ruins of the theater, the girls’ school, the prison and several houses that were never rebuilt keep the history alive. The 10 days were almost over and we sailed back to the beach where Henk and Yvonne had rented an apartment. They pack the last things they had lying there and put the key back in its place. They also decide to stay on board on the last evening. We anchor at a nearby beach where we go out for dinner that evening. Once back on the boat we get ready for a game of cards and we make sure it will be another fun evening. The next morning, we motor to Fort de France and walk with Henk and Yvonne to the taxi rank. We say goodbye to them and are very happy and grateful that they wanted to make this journey and that we were able to spend this time together. Thank you! Lots of love by Jeroen, Aagje and Rajesh.

P.S. Henk and Yvonne had real sea legs during the trip, because they braved the waves without any problems! But when Henk was finally home safely, everything started to move before his eyes. You guessed it right, he got seasick! Fortunately, it only took a day or two and he was back to normal!